pitch wheel problem

Tips and techniques for Minimoog Analog Synthesizers
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freeeq
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:50 pm
Location: los angeles

pitch wheel problem

Post by freeeq » Wed Oct 21, 2009 8:49 pm

hi guys

i bought an electric blue voyager in february this year.
it is absolutely one of the most awesome instruments ive ever played

today i came across a problem with the pitch wheel...
if i push it up, the pitch will NOT change at all.
if i pull it down, the pitch WILL change, but not to the value i specified in the edit page.
:(
i also have the soundtower software editor. if i push/pull the pitch bend wheel with the mouse all is fine.
im thinking it has to do with the pitch wheel hardware?

has anybody had or heard of this issue before?
any insight is greatly appreciated.
thanks

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latigid on
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Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Post by latigid on » Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:20 pm

Your wheel might have some loose contacts or could be mis-calibrated. Of course, talk to Moog first, but you could unscrew the assembly and check the connections.

For those of us who took the Aftertouch Field Upgrade, we had to install a new block and calibrate it.

Hmmm, the instructions aren't online but I could perhaps get you a copy when I'm home, if you're interested.

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RL
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Re: pitch wheel problem

Post by RL » Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:08 am

freeeq wrote:hi guys

i bought an electric blue voyager in february this year.
it is absolutely one of the most awesome instruments ive ever played

today i came across a problem with the pitch wheel...
if i push it up, the pitch will NOT change at all.
if i pull it down, the pitch WILL change, but not to the value i specified in the edit page.
:(
i also have the soundtower software editor. if i push/pull the pitch bend wheel with the mouse all is fine.
im thinking it has to do with the pitch wheel hardware?

has anybody had or heard of this issue before?
any insight is greatly appreciated.
thanks
Hi,
please go to the MASTER menu page 5.1 (Software Version), press ENTER and then the CURSOR. The pitch wheel value must be zero at the center position, +127 at the up position and -128 on down position.
Have fun,
Rudi

freeeq
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:50 pm
Location: los angeles

Post by freeeq » Thu Oct 22, 2009 9:47 pm

thanks Rudi,

with the pitch wheel in the middle its reads +127
pushing up changes nothing, pulling down varies between +60 to +72

am i able to re-calibrate this? cant seem to figure it out...
thanks

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RL
Posts: 770
Joined: Wed May 19, 2004 4:17 am
Location: http://www.moogmusic.de/
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Post by RL » Fri Oct 23, 2009 3:58 am

freeeq wrote:thanks Rudi,

with the pitch wheel in the middle its reads +127
pushing up changes nothing, pulling down varies between +60 to +72

am i able to re-calibrate this? cant seem to figure it out...
thanks
If it was OK when you bought it there must be a loosen screw on the wheel I guess. You should contact Amos (my English is not good enaugh to explain the adjustments I think).
Have fun,
Rudi

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latigid on
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Post by latigid on » Fri Oct 23, 2009 6:43 am

I don't think he has a screw loose ;)

Quoted from the Voyager LHC Upgrade CD:

Sorry, no pictures.

Voyager Left-Hand Controller (LHC) Upgrade
Installation and Calibration Procedure

Tools required:

• #2 (medium size) Phillips-head screwdriver
• Trimmer calibration tool or very small (1/16”) flathead screwdriver
• RTV Silicone Adhesive [GE Silicones IS808 brand recommended]

Setup:

Prepare a clean work area with enough room for the Voyager synthesizer; be sure that your work surface is free from small objects which may damage the finish of the instrument. Set up the Voyager with the keyboard and controls facing you. All modifications will be done to the LHC enclosure alone. Place a cloth towel or other padding over the wooden cabinet at the top of the LHC; this is so as not to scratch or dent the wooden cabinet while you are working on the underside of the LHC module [see figure 1].
figure 1

To remove the old LHC module:

First be sure that power to the Voyager is switched OFF.
Remove the two Phillips-head screws located at the front edge of the Left-Hand Controller. Take out the small wooden block at the front of the LHC and put it with the screws; careful, do not damage the finish of the wood. If the small wooden block seems to be stuck in place, gently tap it with your hand and it should come loose. Lift the front edge of the metal LHC enclosure [as shown in figure 2], and pull forward very slightly until you can see the cables underneath the module.
figure 2

Be careful not to put any stress on the flat plastic cable coming from beneath the keyboard; this is the afterpressure ribbon. Rock the cables from side to side as you remove them to loosen the silicone glue from the connectors. Disconnect the afterpressure ribbon and the 5-wire keyboard cable* from their connectors on the LHC circuit board. Disconnect the 14-pin ribbon cable located at the rear of the LCH circuit board [see figure 3]. It may be easiest to remove this cable if you pull the LHC forward, out of the body of the synth, and lift it up to access the ribbon cable.
Remove the LHC module from the Voyager. Keep it in a safe place in case you ever need it again as a spare part.

* note: Older Voyagers may not have the 5-wire keyboard cable as shown. This is normal. Follow the remaining instructions, ignoring any references to this cable if it is not present on your Voyager.


figure 3
To install the new LHC module:

You are now ready to install the new LHC module with improved aftertouch response. Connect the cables from the Voyager to the new LHC in the opposite order that you removed them. First connect the 14-pin ribbon cable to connector CN4 at the rear of the LHC circuit board, and slide the rear of the new LHC module loosely into the back of the wooden Voyager cabinet.

figure 4

Next, lift up the front edge of the LHC, being careful not to allow the Glide and Release switches to scratch the woodwork, and connect the 5-wire keyboard cable to connector CN3. Finally, connect the flat plastic afterpressure ribbon to connector CN1.
figure 5

It is advisable to use a small bead of RTV silicone adhesive to secure these cables to their connectors and prevent them from coming loose. RTV [room-temperature vulcanizing] silicone glues can commonly be found at auto-parts supply and hardware stores. Moog Music recommends IS808 brand adhesive, made by General Electric, but any equivalent product will do.
[See figure 6, next page]


figure 6
Once the cables are in place and secure, slide the LHC module into position in the Voyager cabinet. The afterpressure ribbon should form a gentle loop; you should slide the loop to the right underneath the keyboard assembly so it does not interfere with the travel of the Modulation wheel. Be careful not to crimp or fold the afterpressure ribbon. When the LHC module is positioned correctly, replace the small wooden block at the front of the LHC enclosure and put the two long Phillips-head screws in place. Before you tighten the screws, check to be sure that the LHC enclosure is lined up parallel to the keyboard and that the low F key does not bind or rub against the LHC. Tighten the screws one at a time while holding the LHC in position.

figure 7


Calibration Set-up:

The following instructions assume that the Voyager has OS 2.5 or later installed. If the Voyager has an OS prior to version 2.5, please upgrade the Voyager to the latest OS [currently v3.2] before proceeding.

Once the new Left-Hand Controller is installed and all cables are reconnected, turn on power to the Voyager. Once the system has finished starting up, press the MASTER button on the Voyager panel to access the Master Menu. Press the +1 button until “Software Version” is selected, and then press Enter. The screen displays the System Version and Boot Version. When you see this screen, press Cursor. This will mute the Voyager sound output and display the Wheels Voltages calibration screen. This screen shows the digital values for the current Pitch and Modulation wheel positions, and is used to ensure proper wheel calibration. Follow the instructions below to ensure that the new LHC board is putting out correct voltages for the Pitch and Modulation wheels.

• “Modulation Wheel” should read 000 with Mod wheel at minimum and 255 with Mod wheel at maximum position.
• “Pitch Bend Wheel” should read 0 when Pitch wheel is at rest, +127 with wheel all the way up, and -128 with wheel all the way down.
• If all of these readings are correct, Congratulations! You’re done. Otherwise, refer to the Calibration section below. You can exit the Wheels Voltages screen by pressing any of the Panel, Edit, Master or Enter buttons, or by turning off power to the Voyager.



figure 8
Calibration:

Mod Wheel calibration:

1) Make sure that the numeric value displayed for Modulation Wheel goes down to 000 when the wheel is fully down; this is a hardware setting and is not adjustable by a trimmer. If this is incorrect, see the Troubleshooting section (below). The value should begin to rise as soon as you start to push the wheel forwards.
2) Push the mod wheel to its maximum position (all the way up/away from you), and observe the value shown for “Modulation Wheel” on the Wheels Voltages screen.
3) Turn the trimmer marked “VR2 / MOD WHEEL” on the LHC circuit board until the displayed value just reaches 255 with the wheel at its maximum position. The Modulation Wheel value should begin to decrease as soon as you start to move the wheel away from its maximum position.

Pitch Wheel calibration:

1) Hold pitch wheel in its maximum (all the way up/away from you) position. Observe the value shown for “Pitch Bend Wheel” on the Wheels Voltages screen. Adjust the trimmer marked “VR1 / PITCH WHEEL” until the displayed value just reaches +127.
2) Let go of the pitch wheel and allow it to return to the center position on its own. Move the wheel back and forth a few times to be sure it is consistently returning to the same center position. Now with the pitch wheel in its center position, adjust the trimmer marked “VR3 / PITCH ZERO” until the value displayed on-screen is 0.
3) Repeat steps 1 and 2 until the displayed value is 0 when the pitch wheel is at rest and +127 when the wheel is all the way up. Bend the wheel all the way down (toward you) and make sure that the value displayed on-screen is -128. If the Pitch Bend amount does not reach -128 at minimum, or if it reaches this value before the end of the wheel’s travel, consult the Troubleshooting section.

Trimmer Locations:
As you look into the underside of the LHC module, you will see three tan plastic trim potentiometers (trimmers) located along the left side of the board. Refer to figure 9 below to identify these trimmers.
figure 9

If the wheels cannot be calibrated or you encounter some other technical difficulty, contact Moog Music technical support: (800) 948-1990 / (828) 251-0090 or techsupport@moogmusic.com .

freeeq
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:50 pm
Location: los angeles

Post by freeeq » Fri Oct 23, 2009 1:37 pm

thanks latigid
ive put in an email to moog, waiting to hear back.
i hate bringing up negatives, i love moog but

switching gears for a second...
i did a factory reset just for sh**s last night, knowing it likely wouldnt help....
it didnt, and caused another issue
now i can hardly read the LCD, the contrast is all out of wack.
very black from straight on, readable from steep angles.
anybody know if/how u can adjust? :roll:

thank you

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latigid on
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Post by latigid on » Fri Oct 23, 2009 1:53 pm

This one Rudi can help you with:

http://www.moogmusic.com/forum/viewtopi ... t=contrast

Sorry to hear about your troubles, they'll be better soon I'm sure.

freeeq
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:50 pm
Location: los angeles

Post by freeeq » Fri Oct 23, 2009 2:29 pm

latigid
thank you very much for all your help, i really appreciate it.
clearly my forum searching skills need improvement.

i tried the various combinations for changing contrast without any luck.
i can confirm the startup light sequence is right, so the voyager IS starting correctly.
however im still seeing black.
hoping to hear from moog soon.

again thank you
this is a great community

freeeq
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:50 pm
Location: los angeles

Post by freeeq » Fri Oct 23, 2009 2:45 pm

fixed the LCD

hit panel twice
find LCD contrast (2.4) adjust
wow im embarassed
:cry:

thanks to ryan at moog.

pitch wheel tweaking now....

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