DFAM power problem
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jessemiller
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:55 pm
DFAM power problem
I accidentally plugged the wrong adapter into my DFAM and now it doesn't power up. Looking inside I don't see anything obviously burned or melted. What would be the first part to check since there is no fuse?
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jessemiller
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:55 pm
Re: DFAM power problem
Well, found the problem. Possible to get a replacement for this part to repair? 
https://ibb.co/1TLfxcc
https://ibb.co/1TLfxcc
Re: DFAM power problem
did you resolve this? i just did the same thing...
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bohredmoog
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2025 3:43 pm
Re: DFAM power problem
Moog helped me out when I reached out to them. I haven't been able to begin a repair on it yet.
Seems the first things to try generally, are:
1. replace D8 zener diode. 12V (the blown one in the photo linked in this thread) - this could happen if the zener clamps hard if +18V or +24V or -12V was applied
2. replace Q15 BSS314PE P-ch MOSFET
3. less, likely, but may need to replace R160 and R161 (499k & 100k resistors). Happens if a surge occurs?
4. less likely but L3 inductor (600ohm @ 100Mhz ferrite bead) could fail open if a surge happens.
so can try the following if you have a multimeter?:
Check D8: remove one leg from circuit, test with diode mode.
Check Q15: look for shorted junctions.
Check for +12V at TP9 when power is applied with a known good 12VDC supply (such as Moog's original supplied working adapter)
Please let me know if you had a successful repair and what you needed to do to get yours up and running, and/or which parts you sourced!
Seems the first things to try generally, are:
1. replace D8 zener diode. 12V (the blown one in the photo linked in this thread) - this could happen if the zener clamps hard if +18V or +24V or -12V was applied
2. replace Q15 BSS314PE P-ch MOSFET
3. less, likely, but may need to replace R160 and R161 (499k & 100k resistors). Happens if a surge occurs?
4. less likely but L3 inductor (600ohm @ 100Mhz ferrite bead) could fail open if a surge happens.
so can try the following if you have a multimeter?:
Check D8: remove one leg from circuit, test with diode mode.
Check Q15: look for shorted junctions.
Check for +12V at TP9 when power is applied with a known good 12VDC supply (such as Moog's original supplied working adapter)
Please let me know if you had a successful repair and what you needed to do to get yours up and running, and/or which parts you sourced!