Hi All , just recently installed an Optokey and while reinstalling the keyboard , got a little confused.
Kept notes whilst dismantling the keyboard , but damned if I can find them.
The attached photo shows 3 pairs of blocks---3 different sizes , 2x wood 1x Perspex.
Not sure what goes where-----I think the Perspex ones belong to the contact strip I removed to install the Optokey , and the others for the keyboard------------LITTLE HELP
Regards
Spuddo
keyboard assembly--little help
Re: keyboard assembly--little help
As my tech has been told me not long ago, deriving from his experiences it's not advisable for a non tech to get into this system, But I don't want to discurrage you going on.
Last year when Kevin Lightner was still alive he had to deal a lot of about this thing with my tech for a customer.
I'm going to forward your problem to my tech. It's very likely that he can help you.......
Last year when Kevin Lightner was still alive he had to deal a lot of about this thing with my tech for a customer.
I'm going to forward your problem to my tech. It's very likely that he can help you.......
"Losers always whine about their best. Winners go home and fu** the prom queen." —Sean Connery to Nicholas Cage in "The Rock" (1996)
I've never seen any real prom queen here in my country, but if we had some they'd
**** with everyone.
I've never seen any real prom queen here in my country, but if we had some they'd
**** with everyone.
- thealien666
- Posts: 2791
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- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: keyboard assembly--little help
I have installed the OptoKey on mine a few years ago.
From the picture you've posted here, the two clear plastic blocks you can discard. They were used to adjust the position of the original buss bars that the OptoKey replaces. The four remaining wood blocks are used as spacers for the four screws that hold the keyboard in place, and go between the metal keyboard frame and the wood casing of the Minimoog D, to hold the keyboard to the right height. If you didn't mark them before removal, you might have to juggle them around to find where they best fit, to have level keyboard keys relative to the front of the synth, since each one was custom cut in thickness to fit your particular Minimoog D.
From the picture you've posted here, the two clear plastic blocks you can discard. They were used to adjust the position of the original buss bars that the OptoKey replaces. The four remaining wood blocks are used as spacers for the four screws that hold the keyboard in place, and go between the metal keyboard frame and the wood casing of the Minimoog D, to hold the keyboard to the right height. If you didn't mark them before removal, you might have to juggle them around to find where they best fit, to have level keyboard keys relative to the front of the synth, since each one was custom cut in thickness to fit your particular Minimoog D.
Moog Minimoog D (1975)
DSI OB6
DSI Prophet REV2
Oberheim Matrix-6
Ensoniq SQ-80
Korg DW8000
Behringer DeepMind 12
Alesis Ion
DSI OB6
DSI Prophet REV2
Oberheim Matrix-6
Ensoniq SQ-80
Korg DW8000
Behringer DeepMind 12
Alesis Ion
Re: keyboard assembly--little help
Hi thanks for your replies.
I'm almost embarrassed having asked the question---it was a no brainer.
The Perspex ones did belong to the contact strip.
The thick wood blocks go to the rear and thin blocks to the front--simple.
Installing the Optokey was a walk in the park , all the photo sensors needed adjusting and were spaced at 2.5mm-- it worked like a charm.
Rock solid 1v/octave and the midi worked a treat.
Thanks for your input.
Regards
Geoff
I'm almost embarrassed having asked the question---it was a no brainer.
The Perspex ones did belong to the contact strip.
The thick wood blocks go to the rear and thin blocks to the front--simple.
Installing the Optokey was a walk in the park , all the photo sensors needed adjusting and were spaced at 2.5mm-- it worked like a charm.
Rock solid 1v/octave and the midi worked a treat.
Thanks for your input.
Regards
Geoff
Re: keyboard assembly--little help
OOOOOPS ! That two plastic blocks made me confused first and I dindn't know what to tell about and didn't take more attention to the other four parts.
What a laugh, I suffered from my own problem when removing the keybed for the bushing change.
In general I always take very much care, even for every screw I'm getting out and put it "just the same" on the table. So I did with the four spacers, two are blank wood the other two were stained on the side surfaces.
But at the end I didn't know where the stained had to belomg to, in the front or in the rear part
But at the end I found the right position. Also to be noted, for rear and front part there are different screws.....
What a laugh, I suffered from my own problem when removing the keybed for the bushing change.
In general I always take very much care, even for every screw I'm getting out and put it "just the same" on the table. So I did with the four spacers, two are blank wood the other two were stained on the side surfaces.
But at the end I didn't know where the stained had to belomg to, in the front or in the rear part



But at the end I found the right position. Also to be noted, for rear and front part there are different screws.....
"Losers always whine about their best. Winners go home and fu** the prom queen." —Sean Connery to Nicholas Cage in "The Rock" (1996)
I've never seen any real prom queen here in my country, but if we had some they'd
**** with everyone.
I've never seen any real prom queen here in my country, but if we had some they'd
**** with everyone.