Moogerfooger 5U modular panels....

[fyvewytches]

Those look fantastic. Seen like this those things certainly do pack a lot of bang for buck !!

[ColorForm2113]

I would like to see a gate in on the mf101 to over ride the audio input trigger. I had this done to Mine and it comes in handy.
Also I think I would prefer a bypass toggle switch in replace of the jack
Other than that they look fantastic! What is the final price on these if you can say

[EricK]

The toggle is nice.

I am waiting on an updated price.

Eric

[GregAE]

Those panels do look great! In case you're keeping count, sign me up for an MF-102 and a MF-103.

- Greg

[Just Me]

Since mine are already racked with front jacks, I would like to have a full set. Move them again and put 'em in the modular. How much for one of each filter, ring and phaser?

[slabwax]

Those look wonderful.

[EMwhite]

I'll definitely buy a 101 and a 102 panels. As for cost, Ben's prices are quite reasonable IMO; I paid 30 GBP for SeqSquared and just looking now, all of his other 2 space MU panels are 30 GBP. As Ben does all of the punching by hand, I can't speak for what the rectangle hole for switches might do to add to cost but from a laser etching perspective, it's easy work for him and fixed cost as opposed to a FPD design which runs tooling to etch each bit of text and graphics.

Ben is also very fair with his shipping costs; those of us in the U.S. of course must pay the piper when it comes to pound to dollar conversion but that's life.

Whether or not the bloke that did the design is getting a piece of the pie and adding to the cost (or being paide as part of the 30) is another matter. We will see...

[EricK]

Hi Eric,

Just spoke to Ben ... panels will be £30 each
Also please state of the forum that these are not drop in modules.
You will have to modify your Moogerfooger ... to fit the panel.
Either yourself or get a qualified Tech to do it.
I also think we may do an angled bracket for people that
have odd shaped cases ... as some PCB's are long ... example
the mf-103 PCB is is 16.8mm or need to mount the PCB further away.
Also the early Big Briar pedals were different - PCB designs as far as I
know ...
I'll be checking out if there is any difference in panel hole spacing -
hopefully both fit the new panel design.

Please send me a link to the post when you have posted ... many thanks

Best regards

Rob

Does anyone have the ability to disassemble the remaining moogerfoogers and take high-res pictures of the panels and pcb's for Rob so he can complete the set?

I'm probably going to order the first three as soon as everything gets finalized.


The numbers on the 102 look weird, but then again he said they aren't 100% finished and I think that the MF should be capitalized.
Eric

[EMwhite]

I'll do the 105(m) and 104(m). I suppose he simply wants a scan of the panel?

I did precisely this when I panel'ed my 101 Low pass for my modular. You remember the one, I botched up the switch rectangular hole so put a Moog bumper sticker across the front of the panel : )

Wonder if I'll get a nice solid gold knob sooner that I can replace that bumper sticker?

[latigid on]

EricK, he probably means cm, not mm as written.

You all know that I did this with my Moogerfoogers a few years ago, sadly the project is currently mothballed as I had a PhD to finish and then moved to another country.

Some sage advice (perhaps):

Don't underestimate the labour involved in modifying these units. If the panel layout is tight you will have to desolder PCB mounted sockets, more difficult for the newer ones with big ground planes and lead-free solder (MF-107, I realise there is no panel for this yet). In any case you will have to breakout the socket connections and defeat the normalling which plagues so many people when they try to use patchbays.

As your contact noted, the MF-103 (and 104/104SD/(104Z?)) footprints are too large to use front-facing sockets as they would hit each other. An angle bracket is a good idea, but keep in mind that there are no mounting holes on the 103 PCB. You might be able to find a spare corner to drill into or glue a bracket, although neither of these are too appealing. For this method, each pot, LED and switch would also require panel mounting or replacement, LED bezels etc. and I can't think of an easy way to mount the switch. What is possible (somebody in the past did this) is to increase the mounting distance (i.e. panel to PCB) by desoldering and extending component legs with stiff wire.

MFs use 9 VDC power which might not be compatible with your modular. You could always put the wall warts in your modular case.

30 GBP isn't too bad if the panels are engraved and in-filled; you would pay a lot more from Front Panel Express or similar. The real expense will be in getting a tech to modify your units if you aren't planning to do this yourself. It is possible that the cost will be more than you paid for the pedal itself.

[EricK]

Thanks for the great tips!

I was thinking with the 103 just rig up some kind of perpendicular mount. I haven't heard back from Rob about lead time or anything yet. I'm sure he is going to have a panel made and then they will likely be on the website.

[EMwhite]

I somehow lost the privilege to post pictures here. But look here: http://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=86682

Ben's panel work is laser etched (not engraved and filled) so it's simply black matte paint as we are all used to, with extremely fine detailed design. Look on his site and you'll see some excellent examples, especially on the custom page: http://www.bigbluewave.co.uk/resynthesi ... els_01.htm

If you are handy, you could solder up a simple regulator with a cap for a low-budget but effective power supply conversion but the shedding of 6V might require a decent heat sink; I just kept my MF power supply above, it was easier. Note that I saw somebody piggy back onto the solder leads of the 1/4" jacks (and you can do the same with pots if you keep them at one extreme) vs. yanking them as I did. I wanted to put the board up as high as possible so thought I would need the clearance and the jacks removed; without any graphics on the panel, the large amount of panel space looked silly; also sought to have the jacks roughly aligned with the rest of my 5U setup.

It's going to be an issue once the BIG PCBs are mounted. So I'm of the mindset of moving the entire set of controls to the panel; and yeah, lots of work!

[EricK]

But what I would need if the future would be a scan of a disassembled front
panel
for a particular moogerfooger that needs a panel design.
So for example:
Say someone wants an mf-107 freq box made into a moog modular panel.
1. I would need a high res scan of the panel.
Lay it on a flatbed scanner with the lid open - it doesn't normally pick up
any background stuff... just looks off white behind it.
The scan I use as a template - to lay the moog panel over it to get the hole
positions exact.
2. A photo of the PCB board from the back ... of the open pedal showing it
in position.
3. A photo of the front of the PCB board.
Photos should be next to a ruler or tape measure in millimetres
The photos are to check that nothing will snag

[MC]

The 101 and 102 may fit those panels, but the 103 and newer have bigger boards that might not clear the 1/4" jacks on the 5U format. I have a pic of the guts:

http://www.retrosynth.com/~analoguedieh ... f-gutz.jpg

[EricK]

These panels aren't inherently set up for it, but I was thinking about going with some sort of perpendicular mount for the foogers with the bigger boards. I figure that these might be racked anyway, so I'm not particular concerned about space in the rear.