using only the electronics box from a model d? possible?

Hi-

I have a beautiful vintage model d,
it was refrofitted with midi and the keyboard upgrade from Lightner.

for travels and outside studio work id like to basically take out the electronics box portion, which is fairly small and light (i know keith emerson did it in the 70’s), and use it only with an external midi keyboard/sequencer.

Its really crucial for me to be able to return it to the main box and reconnect with its original keyboard, thus returning it to stock condition at anytime.

What is the procedure and do you recommend anyone in NYC to do that job?

Thanks!

The first thing that comes to mind here is what do you intend on doing with the mod section when it’s in “portable mode?”
The instrument won’t play without the mod section hooked up.

While there is a way to make a pre-wired plug that inserts into the 12 pin connector normally used for the mod section, you’d obviously lose some functionality with no pitch or mod wheels.
The MIDI to CV converter would have to generate both pitchbend and modulation signals (and likely then only vibrato, not true OSC to OSC modulation.)
So you’re going to experience some loss of functionality or sound possibilities.

The loss of the glide on/off switch is no huge thing. Simply turn the glide knob all the way down.
But the release switch normally affects both envelope generators’ release sections, so it might be frustrating having to manipulate both release knobs as you’d like AND the glide knob per patch.

Perhaps make a housing for the mod section?
It could also contain a CV and Gate input jack for the MIDI to CV converter or an entire converter itself if large enough.

As for Midi and keyboards, you can leave off the keyboard and use a custom cable that plugs into the six pin keyboard connector.
This would be the same connector you’d normally plug your stock keyboard or OptoKey connector plug into.
That connector accepts both a control voltage and a standard V gate. (not an S-trig.)

The greater problem is that you’d have to transpose most MIDI to CV converters because the Minimoog is based in the key of F, not C like most synths.

You can try using the rear panel S-trig in jack and OSC CV Input jack, but you’ll lose glide because that OSC Input jack doesn’t go through the glide circuit.
(Some MIDI to CV converters offer glide, but they don’t always sound like a true Minimoog glide.)

Also, the S-trig input jack only triggers the envelopes, not the keyboard CV memory circuit.
So whatever MIDI to CV converter you use must be very accurate and also hold its CV output stable even when there’s no note played.
If you plan on using the S-trig input jack, the MIDI to CV converter must also be able to generate an S-trig.
Some only generate V-trigs (a gate.)

I know it’s a lot of money, but perhaps buy another model D just for touring?
It’s a lot of work to change over from one “mode” to another.
If you’re going on tour for months at a time, it might make sense.
But if you’re planning on going back and forth between studio and stage every few days or weeks, changing everything over and back again is going to get real old, real quickly.
Screws, connectors and probably recalibration are going to need attention every time things are swapped.

Fwiw, an optokey does not need a keyboard to operate as a simple MIDI to CV converter.
You simply have to make sure it can hook up to four signals: + power, ground, gate in and CV in.
The main board does not need to be hooked up to the keyboard action or opto sensors in order for it to work.
You can just plug and unplug it as needed.
But it’s also not the world’s best MIDI to CV converter.
It can’t generate notes below low F or above high C and can’t produce modulation or pitchbend.

I can’t recommend anyone in NY to do the work, but I’m sure someone exists there that could do it.
But when you do find someone, make certain they understand everything first and can deliver a synth that won’t fall apart soon afterward or worse… on stage during a performance.
Perhaps ask Gene Stopp.
He works on KE’s Moogs and sometimes travels around as part of his normal day job or when on tour with Keith.
He also owns his own optokey-equipped Mini, so he already understands a lot of what’s needed to know.

I should also say that no matter how careful one is, the more one handles an instrument, the more chances there are of scratching things unintentionally.

Good luck!

Sounds like you might want something like this:

The split Mini was a factory mod, and something similar could be made with a custom wood enclosure. Plug in the original keyboard for the studio, and a breakout box for live use.
I did a similar mod for live use by mounting a remote Mini in a walnut cabinet. The one I did became larger than a stock Mini, because I needed extra modules/functions. Ended uo looking like this:

For the left hand controller portion of the Mini, I just built a panel to the same specs as the original. Used the pitchbend pot as a coarse tune, eliminating any problems with the stock Mini using the lowest key “F”, as zero volts in. With the coarse tune knob the range is well over an octave, so matching the tune to any MIDI to CV converter is easy. The mod pot remained the same with a switched option to control with a remote pot/pedal, or a switched external mod input. The glide/decay is wired the same with the option to remote control via foot switch or pedal with the special size Switchcraft sockets.
Since my unit was racked, I needed to access the rear CV inputs and ran those out to a panel. Along with the original keyboard CV input, now labled pitch, I had the CV inputs for Pitch, VCF, VCA, VCO, and S-trigger. Since disigned for live use the three pitch, VCF, S-trigger are wired into a three position rotary to quickly select between controller/sequencer/accessories. With this configuration any CV into the pitch socket controlled both the oscillators and filter via the orange panel swithces, while retaining the glide circuit. The VCO input could act as a transpose or pitch bend depending on what I needed. (VCO and VCA are the two inputs on the bottom right panel blocked by cables.)

I also needed the audio output/input on the front panel and added an 8-pin cinch to supply power to Moog accessories. This included the sockets for the accessory outputs.

All you really need is a new split wood enclosure and a breakout box with the above mentioned lefthand controller wiring with added pitch CV, and you should be good to go.
I never really needed the original keyboard again, but have it set aside for if I ever want to return it to stock. But I do have a completly stock Mini for when I need that too.
The MIDI keyboard control of a Mini is fun though. Have a nice quality 7+ octave keyboard controller. Can’t tell you just how much fun it is to play that setup with the bottom 2 1/2 octaves controlling a Moog modular bass with 4 1/2 octaves to play the Mini!

Don’t know any tech up to the task in your area. I have heard good things about Steven Masucci from NY doing Moog modular restorations, but don’t know him personally?

One thing for sure, on the factory mod of “splitting” the Mini in two, the gain in space might be somewhat beneficial, but not in weight. Since the bulk of the weight of a Mini is coming from the control panel and bottom MDF wood board.

The keyboard action weighs plenty also.

The rear chassis is aluminum, but both the keybed and keys are heavier as they’re made of steel.
The transformer weighs a bit too, fwiw.

I bet if a two manual Prophet 10 was missing the keyboards, it would be surprisingly light.

Btw, on the later MKIII Odysseys, they used a lighter key action (all plastic keys) probably because they redid the previously aluminum panel and vinyl bottom with both pieces now being made entirely of thick steel.
After that, I’d imagine that Arp’s service centers saw less bent up Ody enclosures, but more broken keys. :wink:

CZ,
It looks as if you upgraded your camera, your pictures look much clearer.

Been experimenting with longer exposure times with low light. My aging eyes are getting blurry though. :laughing:
Pics of the old Moog just seem to look better in B&W for some reason? Vintage look I guess.