Has anyone tried it ?
I’ve seen some controversy about this e.g. in this thread
http://www.vintagesynth.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=68115
whereas other seem to think it’s fine
http://www.emusic-diy.org/MoogManuals/MicroMoog
Cheers
Mike
I am the author of that modification. It does work.
That’s the first time I have seen that VSE thread. “Don T” may dispute my approach but he never admitted to using that modification.
Hey
Thanks for replying, did it “over emphasizes the square wave, leaving the other wave forms quieter. It does drive the filter nicely on a square wave, though” ?
And what do you think about this, is it valid ??
“it would make more sense to bypass C506 with a 1.0uf cap, and if the real C506 is an electrolytic or tantalum, it may not only be due for replacement, it probably had a high ESR to begin with. If it was me, I’d simply replace C506 with a good-quality 1.0uf film cap and call it a day. If a good film cap would be difficult to fit, I’d use an audio-quality 2.2uf non-polar electrolytic cap, such as the NIchicon ES Muse series.”
Never noticed the other waveforms being quieter or the overemphasis on the square wave. Many others have done that mod and that is the first time I heard of that behavior.
And what do you think about this, is it valid ??
“it would make more sense to bypass C506 with a 1.0uf cap, and if the real C506 is an electrolytic or tantalum, it may not only be due for replacement, it probably had a high ESR to begin with. If it was me, I’d simply replace C506 with a good-quality 1.0uf film cap and call it a day. If a good film cap would be difficult to fit, I’d use an audio-quality 2.2uf non-polar electrolytic cap, such as the NIchicon ES Muse series.”
I experimented with those values. My ears heard less low end with those values. Like I said, he has never admitted to using that modification.
It’s not a destructive mod and very easy to reverse back to stock.
To put it quite frankly, VSE is filled with misinformation. There is a reason I do not visit that site.