the first thing i did when i got the minitaur is to run the headphone output back into the audio input jack.
anything wrong with this?
not at all. Same trick that was used on the Minimoog Model D to overdrive the filter. Same principle behind the “overload” circuit found on the LP/SP. I don’t have 1/8" to 1/4" jacks at the moment. Let us know if it is worth getting one!
It’s also the Brute knob of the upcoming Arturia Minibrute. It also works on your iPad w/the Korg iMS-20.
I ordered a couple of packs of Eurorack 1/8" cables and I already have several 1/8" to 1/4" jack adapters sitting around. I’m going to be using my Minibrute to control my Minitaur once I get them both. I refuse to pay 5 or 6 bucks a cable for one that has the different sizes at either end heh.
agreed. I’ve got the jacks, just to lazy to solder em at the moment.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=092-153
This would be my personal starting point. Too lazy to solder does not describe me at all. The three tubes of solder on my workbench can attest to that. 
Muksys, if you need some help, send me the plugs and cables you have and I will solder them myself. If you don’t have cable, I’ll just charge you 68 cents a foot for mine. Soldering is free. 
Send me a PM if interested. That goes for anyone on here, as well. Just don’t ask me to do much more than make cables…that’s the only free service I offer. 
On the Voyager we are advised against this due to an impedance mismatch. You would be wise to research this further before continuing with this method.
Thanks for the offer, but I’m good. I love soldering! I spend a lot of time building synths and effects, but when it comes to making cables…blaahhhhh.
Is this in the Voyager manual? I just looked through the Minitaur Manual and it not heed any warning against routing the headphone out to the audio in.
I understand. I’m on a cable kick lately, building cables for my own modular. I’m not about to spend $300 on cables for a modular that costs $3000. That’s just silly. 
I can make cables in my sleep, and I’ve been doing that lately, with excellent results.
On the Voyager we are advised against this due to an impedance mismatch. You would be wise to research this further before continuing with this method.
i THINK this actually turned out to be a couple misunderstandings in a row? i think moog wanted to be sure that people were plugging the right type cable into the headphone/insert.
i think the problem was that if you plug a balanced 1/4" jack into both, you’ll get unruly feedback and could cause some mayhem because you’d get an output going INTO the headphone jack and back out.
not even sure why that would be a problem— but i did it with a mono cable a billion times before i googled it and it never caused me any issue on my RME.
i just wanted to get an official blessing for this, since i noted that the headphone jack was 1/8th inch, and i thought maybe they had done it like that on purpose?
the more info we have, the better.
When I tried it on my MT, it was 1/8" TRS to 2 1/4" TS. Plugged it in and everything was good to go. This should be totally fine. My guess for the 1/8" headphone jack was simply because there isn’t enough real estate for another 1/4".
A good reason in the case of the Minitaur, but almost all pro Headphones have now switched to 1/8 plugs, and all new all MP3-computer-guitar pedals-controllers have switched to 1/8 inch jacks too. Expect the 1/4 inch plug for headphones to become obsolete for all but a few select products.
No, there is no misunderstandig here. I don’t recall this actually being in the manual but I have seen GregAE and Amos both implicitly state that there is an impedance mismatch between the headphone jack and the audio input. While this seems like the easiest method to create this effect, one has to wonder why it isn’t listed in the articles on Knob Tweak about overloading the audio input.
Ive done it before on my Voyager, but not after I heard that it will eventually cause the audio input circuit to blow.
Any kind of impedance mismatch is generally going to make bad things happen eventually.
Sleep-soldering doesn’t sound the safest, but if it gives good results…
As far as headphones go, I bought a pair of Shure HRS440s and they’re 1/8", but come w/a threaded 1/4" adapter that screws on. Pretty convenient
I’ve fallen asleep in my workroom a couple times this week. I’ve woken up to find completed cables I don’t recall finishing. Strange, but not unusual for me. Haven’t burned myself yet, and the iron always is unplugged when I wake up. 
Most pro headphones are going the route you describe. I wish they did sooner. 1/8" adapters add too much length to the plug, and they break jacks very easily. Especially when used with portable devices.
Personally, I wish they would leave the 1/4" headphone outputs on “Pro” Gear. 1/8" is a bad idea in a studio setting. Musicians are brutal with headphones. 1/8" snap off easily. I’m a fan of the Sony MDR Series Headphones. They are actually 1/8" but the 1/4" adapter screws onto the jack and does not add any extra length. Best headphones (IMHO). All parts are replaceable.
But, anyway, I guess it depends on what type of gear you are talking about. Every bit of new gear that I have purchased that has a dedicated headphone output use 1/4". It would seem to me that 1/8" would be found on more DJ or “project studio” gear.
Derailment!!
Awesome! Glad I was doing it right!! (TRS - Y TS)
What was the final verdict on this, is it okay so long as we do it with a mono cable?