Hey,
I am thinking about using my drum triggers to trigger some synth action and I honestly can’t find any information out there about these triggers.
They are Simmons Hexabugs, just a diaphragm with some wires connected to a 1/4th putput.
Now Heres what Im thinking that I can do:
Im thinking that I can get some Freq Box sync (cause the triggers output an audio signal)
Im thinking I can use them to trigger a sample and hold to modulate something else.
Im thinking that I can use the Envelope FOllower for some FM possibly or for something else.
Maybe sync up some voyager LFO’s or something.
What I don’t know is because there isn’t any literature available, I don’t want to fry my equipment!. I didn’t know that it was a “trigger” persay because it exports an audio signal, or if was also exported a voltage that I coudl use with the Moog stuff.
If I exceed +5 volts on a trigger will I fry my input jack?
The way you’re suggesting it, I don’t think it’ll work.
It might for some inputs, but likely not for all.
One way to get there is to use a trigger to MIDI interface that’s hooked to a MIDI to CV converter.
The problem with this scenario is that few CV converters output velocity.
If trying to do it via purely analog, you’ll need some sort of preamp / env trigger module.
Also keep in mind that if these are piezo triggers, they can produce thousands of volts if the element itself is hit hard.
No hammers!
I agree with Kevin, here. These Simmons triggers are piezo elements under polycarbonate, with a thin sheet of rubber on top. I know that these types of triggers are used in the Yamaha DD series, sans polycarb, from the DD-9 to the DD-65. I myself am in the process of turning a DD-50 into a drum module with my own homemade trigger pads.
The DD-50 has voltage-limiting circuitry on the circuit board. If you can find the schematics, (I’ve been unable to find free ones, and it’s not worth paying for to me, as I don’t need them for what I’m doing) find someone to copy the circuit.
You say these output audio? Someone may be able to use the voltage limiter inside to convert these to do what you want…but they’ll never be the same. Do you really want to ruin these classic triggers?
Whether this will work for your application, I dunno. You could use a voltage limiter and a piezo pad on the Keyboard CV input of the Little Phatty to trigger those sounds. I’ve been successful with that, though that’s all I can use the DD-9 for anymore.
Right. Figured it out. The piezo’s are wired to act like microphones. Therefore, my advice to you is to plug a cable into the 1/4 inch socket, and measure the voltage with a volt meter (Radio Shack, 10 bucks) while you hit the drum. This will tell you if the threshold exceeds 5 volts. Make sure you’re measuring in DC Volts.
Alright, then! All you need to do is plug a cable into the 1/4 inch jack(a TS cable should be sufficient for this), set your multimeter to DC Volts, the 20 volt range, if there is one, if not, any double-digit setting will suffice, touch the black lead to the sleeve of the plug, or better yet, tape it in place. Next, tape the red lead to the tip of the plug. Next, tap the drum and see what the reading is. If the voltage reads negative numbers, switch the leads. This is assuming you have a digital meter with an LCD display. If the meter reads OL, the output is greater than 20 volts, and you shouldn’t continue with the experiment.
If this doesn’t work, and the meter still reads 0, use a TRS cable with the red meter lead secured to the ring, and the black meter lead secured to the sleeve. And good luck!
My electronics experience in building circuits is limited only to putting batteries in things that need batteries. My experience with the Multimeter is limited to putting batteries in it. lol
Is this something that I could ruin X object by using it with the multimeter?
I’m not sure how to say this, but using a multimeter probably won’t work here.
The pulsewidth of a pickup signal is very short and most multimeters (especially autoranging types) take some time to read a signal.
Put simply, most multimeters aren’t fast enough to read such a quick event.
Also desirable would be a peak-hold function on the meter.
A cheapy meter probably won’t work at all or very accurately.
AC/DC fundamentals is a GREAT place to start! I got college credit for that and two other classes in high school, when I began my electronics training. Of course, I only took a couple college classes after that before mastering computer repair. But I can build circuits with schematics, and I can fix things without schematics, as long as I have a parts list. So in short, sign up for the class! Or, become Kevin’s apprentice…he said he could use one on another thread.
First, no. As long as you are measuring resistance or voltage, you can hardly go wrong. Especially with measuring the outputs of musical gear. (BTW, the CV outs on the LP measure 4.98 Volts, in case you were wondering) Second, do yourself a favor and get yourself a Fluke meter. I know they’re expensive, but Fluke is the Moog of multimeters. Literally. The base model costs as much as an MF-101.
Help me become an electronics engineer instantly Kevin.
Don’t look to me, I’m no engineer.
I have no degrees, no college (except when I gave a lecture at a state U) and no high school diploma.
I do have 3+ decades with the actual hardware though and so far no one’s asked for my scholastic qualifications.
If you love to do something, do it and don’t stop.
Study everything you can on the subject.
Whatever it is, you’ll get good at it over time.
Fwiw, I have several meters, including ones from HP, B&K and yes, a Fluke 289.
Flukes are good meters, but they’re a bit overkill for learning the basics.
One can buy a surprisingly accurate DMM now for about $10.
I wouldn’t use an inexpensive meter for certain measurements in analog synths, but they’re fine for general testing.
You can also buy fairly cheap used oscilloscopes if you shop around.
Between a meter and a scope, you can cover a LOT of ground in electronics.
I concur, Kevin! I learned quite a bit from Radio Shack 300-in-1 electronics kits. Hands on is definitely the best way to learn! I love my Fluke meter, BTW, though I don’t recall what model it is. It’s the cheapest one.
Ive been trying to get my hands on an analog bench scope that I know the school is going to sell. I understand thats a good way to aquire stuff for good prices…if the state doesn’t step in and force them to send it to a warehouse where it will get no love.
Ultimately my goal is to be able to read some schems that I can get from MFOS and DIY myself to some sequencer goodness.
Maybe then I could just build my own cutsom Moog modules instead of ordering them!
Volt,
Yeah, don’t just throw that Moog name out there like ill jump and buy it lolol. Ferraris are the Moog of cars…you better get one to haul around that new custom LP so you don’t have to carpool.
Nah…that’s what the 2007 Dodge Charger SXT is for. That, and going back and forth to work. It’s like a Korg if Korg made cars.
To get back to the subject on hand, start out small. Perhaps a theremin kit from Paia, or one of their small kits. Building your own modular is something you do when you get as good as Kevin…unless you build a bunch of Paia kits from their 9700 series. But build them one at a time.
Also, Radio Shack has books and kits that you can start out with, if you feel like the Paia kits are too complex. They also have some cool robotic kits, if you’re into the programming aspect of electronics.
It’s like a Korg if Korg made cars.