Moog Music Forum

Hi!

I don't know if this is an appropriate topic here, but I thought I would ask. I have an original set of Taurus 1s. I bought them used for $500 in 1985 (which was a lot then) and have used them since then. (The guy who bought them asked me to sell them back 6 months later.)

I was good about getting them serviced from a local Moog guy, but that skillset has been gone in my area for a long time.

I have two issues: 1: it seems like some foam lining inside the unit is turning into oil (or some sort of oily substance.) Everybody I speak to about this anomoly thinks I am crazy. However, if I don't keep a spare rug under the unit, it ruins carpets. I guess it probably does not hurt anything, but when my beloved pedals are aging like this, I get concerned maybe something else is amiss. I guess foam from back then was oil-based, so assume that is what is leaving the deposits.

2. This is the one I am most concered about. My F key is sticking more and more. My electronics buddy used to give me contact cleaner, but ever since the ban on freon, he told me to be careful. I guess electronic cleaners in modern times are water based. Anybody have any advice on what to use to clean the contacts?

These are the last of my great Moog collection and I want to hang onto them. I parted with my Mini, Rogue, and Prodigy years ago. These things are priceless and I want to continue to use them. Any advice would be most appreciated.

Thanks!
Michael

Hi,

The foam problem is common amongst some old Moogs.
Citrus based solvents can help and won't ruin carpeting.

The contacts on the T1 are a problem.
I don't recommend any contact cleaner that leaves a residue (including Caig stuff.)
The contacts are silver plated and will tarnish.
Light abrasive 1000 sand paper or polish can sometimes help.
Obviously don't go too crazy.
I have used contacts in stock, but hard to say if they're any better than what you already have.

I've also designed a drop-in replacement board, but finding a PCB maker to make long PCB's has been a problem.
The new switches (1 million cycles) I use can replace any or all of your contacts, but it's a tedious job to do on an original style board. Most techs could handle it, but would resent it

I didn't know they used that foam in Taurus Is - mine don't have them...?!? Well they're an early set maybe they didn't use it that far back.

Mine doesn't have the foam inside either... mine are dated June/July 1976 so maybe it was indeed later models, or maybe someone took the foam stuff out of mine before I got them.

The foam is normally comprised of a self-stick strip on either side of the pedal sliders (VOL, VCF). Was used as a dust cover, but came off by itself usually.

Ah, OK. Mine are circa 1975 and the foot controls do not have those dust covers. Probably long gone.

My Polymoog still has that foam though - as soon as my bench is unpacked I'm tearing that stuff out. I removed it from everything else.

moflaherty wrote: Anybody have any advice on what to use to clean the contacts?

Hi,

If the contacts of the Taurus are similar to the Minimoog´s, this is what it says on the model D service manual:

<< At the factory, we use and recommend Cramolin. If this is not available, TV tuner spray may be used. Do NOT under any circumstances use abrasives or abrasive tools, since this will destroy the gold plating. If spraying does not cure the problem, try wiping the buss bar with a cotton swab in the area of the problem key or keys. >>

This was during the 70s. I don´t know if they still use Cramolin today, but the company is still in business and manufactures a range of cleaners including TV tuner spray which, according to them, don´t leave residue and have excellent compatibility with plastics.

http://www.itwcp.de/en/index.html

Hope this helps.

OK, my problem has gotten worse, so I am going to try to clean these. I am a bit concerned about sanding, and it sounds like some of you agree. I appreciate the post on the Cramolin -- does everybody think that would be ok to try? If I attempt to get a spray cleaner, what exactly should I watch for and avoid? That freon based stuff my friend used to get worked so well, but it has been banned.

Also, how can I determine how old my Moog T1s are? They are really awesome sounding; they are the Stradivarius of bass pedals. I really want to make this work; I am getting ready to do some more recording. I still have oily foam all over the place; these must be older I guess.

Thanks!

I am a bit concerned about sanding, and it sounds like some of you agree.

I would agree that a novice probably shouldn't sand their contacts, but most of the people you're considering a consensus from are not professional techs.
Fwiw... I am.

"I appreciate the post on the Cramolin -- does everybody think that would be ok to try?"

Sure, if you'd like more problems down the road.

The fact is, T1 contacts are silver and silver tarnishes.
If you use your T1's a lot after a good cleaning (regardless of how cleaned) they will again tarnish up unless played a lot.
Playing will cause a self-wiping action and won't allow tarnish to set in.

Sprays that leave a film will attract dust.
Dust will increase friction and/or act as an insulator.
They can also affect the pitch stability, especially after a note's release.

If you want a good, quick way to detarnish them, try this:

Take the contact board out.
Put it in a bathtub and pour Tarn-X detarnishing chemical over all the contacts.
An old toothbrush may help scrub them up, but be gentle.
Allow a few minutes for the chemical to work, then rinse extremely well with water.
Allow to dry completely and reinstall.
Cost is about $5 or so and you'd be surprised how clean they'll come out.
This is a tested procedure I've performed on dozens of T1's.

Thank you for that advice; I will tackle that. I am not too bad with electronics.

How versed are you in electronic and analog design? You sound like you know a lot about T1s...

...he is Kevin Lightner, he should know

moflaherty wrote:
Also, how can I determine how old my Moog T1s are?

Mine still have the original QC sheet attached inside with a few workers' initials and dates indicated (late June/early July 1976).