Moog Music Forum

hello

The red on/off lamps indicating glide and decay don't do anymore. They're always off. So any tips how to fix this? Minor procedure or should I let someone do it since I have absolutely no idea about the innards of the mighty T? I'm a musician, not a doctor. I've never opened the thing before.

Before opening it up try reflashing the firmware. To be honest I doubt the LEDs are controlled by the firmware, but you never know and it's free to try.

hm I don't think it's a firmware issue with the Taurus 1...

oh one more thing (no need to open yet another topic): like on this pic:



my pedals have the same icky rubbery gluey frame thing there. What could this have been? I thought mine's previous owner has attached something weird to it and obviously he wasn't the only one. So what's the best (= harmless to the material) cleaning procedure here?

krohurte wrote:hm I don't think it's a firmware issue with the Taurus 1...

That's what I get for answering just after I wake up. I forget there are other Taurus models before 3.

Sounds like the indicator LEDs are burned out. A fairly simple procedure to replace them (if you're handy with a soldering iron), and the sticky stuff is the glue for the panel transparancy starting to decompose & ooze out. This ooze can be rermoved with elbow grease, a terry cloth towel & some rubbing alcohol.
The bad news is that not long after the front transparancy starts oozing, it is common for the foam material used as dust barrier & applied throughout the interior to start decomposing too. It sounds like this is already happening to yours. When this happens, it's not just a mess, it is a major clean-up job best left to professionals.

Hello krohurte

For removing label glue, I have found that Citrus based cleaners work better than alcohol... Here in Canada we have a product called Goo-Gone that safely removes stickers. (Do not confuse Goo-Gone with a product called Goof-Off which contains Xylene and will remove paint!)

The LED's are most likely not burned out... but, the circuitry driving them has failed... It must be a common failure as a couple of the LED's are out.... It's most likely be a cold solder joint on a common power line feeding the Logic IC's.

If you are technically inclined (and safety oriented), you can check for +5 VDC using a voltmeter between PIN 14 and Ground on IC908 and IC910 to see if those IC's are receiving power. If not, re-flow the solder joints on the ground and power lines feeding those IC's and the actual power pins on the IC's (PIN 7 and 14). Also check component leads near those IC's that transfer power from one side of the PCB to the other . (been there, done that for the exact same problem!)

http://whyleuwait.com/T3/T1_Story_March_2010.pdf

Schematic here...
http://www.synthfool.com/docs/Moog/taur ... ematic.jpg

I hope this helps

Regards

Joe

thanks guys for all the info. yes, it's obviously better to take it to a professional.

Hi there,

I remember replacing an LED on one of the buttons on my T1 and it was a fairly straightforward procedure. The fact that all of your LED's have gone though seems to indicate something a bit more serious. What I would do initially is open the case and check all of the connectors to make sure one of them hasn't come loose.

Cheers.

ah no it was only 2 lamps that didn't work right. Glide and Decay. Funnily enough they've been working for a few weeks now after I had a repair guy checking them for a service fee estimate. I then didn't have it repaired (for 300$ all the lamps have to blow up first) but maybe simply by opening the chassis the lamps might have gone back into a working state again...

krohurte wrote:ah no it was only 2 lamps that didn't work right. Glide and Decay. Funnily enough they've been working for a few weeks now after I had a repair guy checking them for a service fee estimate. I then didn't have it repaired (for 300$ all the lamps have to blow up first) but maybe simply by opening the chassis the lamps might have gone back into a working state again...

Sounds like an intermittent connection/bad solder problem. Unfortunately, $300 is pretty reasonable for a tech to fix whatever is wrong with the Taurus...especially when replacement parts are involved.