Re: Moog Model 15 modular/Club Of The Knobs vs. Synthesizers
Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 4:32 am
Here's my 82 cents on the 921 clone.
Good:
It basically did what it was supposed to, even if it wasn't like a real 921 in feel or sound.
Didn't cost a fortune.
Used decent quality components for the most part. Resistors were mostly good 1% metal film.
Had a high "fool" factor, ie: it looked like a real Moog to most people.
Bad:
Cheap IC sockets. Many frictional contacts. Real Moogs did use sockets, but not for every IC.
Tons of trimmers. More than a real 921.Trims use friction-based contacts too. (more things to fail.)
A CEM 3340 main IC. I thought someone would have said something about this- (Look at the date code.)
Soldering and parts installation could have been much better all around.
No lock-washers anywhere and nothing was tightened well. Selector switches would "wander."
Lack of heatshrinked strain relieving on wires to the panel. (wires might break more easily in time.)
Knobs were not prepped and still had adhesive or areas of backing paper stuck to them.
But my biggest gripe was that the controls felt very different from real Moogs.
Plastic selector switches that felt different and pots that were oil damped.
COTK often used small sized Alpha type pots. Aluminum shafts with non-sealed bodies.
The common pot you'd find on most Japanese electronics in the past 30 years.
Moog modulars were made with larger, higher quality mil-spec pots with solid brass shafts and sealed enclosures.
They're more precise and required more torque to turn (ie: they're stiffer.)
One big problem is that by using these Japanese pots, the shaft sizes are metric not US.
They have slightly smaller diameter shafts than the proper .250" the knobs expect.
So the knob setscrews would be overtightened to take up the slack, but this causes the knobs not to rotate perfectly in a circle.
With the light action selectors, oil damped pots and off-center knobs, it felt weak and "drunk" instead of solid and precise.
I would hope that COTK has improved their construction methods and soldering since I took these photos.
I have doubts they're using any better parts on their front panels tho.
I think they have good intentions, but not a lot of experience with electronics or real Moogs.
I've only seen some early modules too, which may or may not be as things are now.
Then they didn't look like they would age, travel well or stand up to much abuse.
Maybe they're better now, but don't expect them to be just like Moogs in every respect- feel, sound, response, etc.
The front panels look like Moogs, but otherwise they're totally different creatures.
Good:
It basically did what it was supposed to, even if it wasn't like a real 921 in feel or sound.
Didn't cost a fortune.
Used decent quality components for the most part. Resistors were mostly good 1% metal film.
Had a high "fool" factor, ie: it looked like a real Moog to most people.
Bad:
Cheap IC sockets. Many frictional contacts. Real Moogs did use sockets, but not for every IC.
Tons of trimmers. More than a real 921.Trims use friction-based contacts too. (more things to fail.)
A CEM 3340 main IC. I thought someone would have said something about this- (Look at the date code.)
Soldering and parts installation could have been much better all around.
No lock-washers anywhere and nothing was tightened well. Selector switches would "wander."
Lack of heatshrinked strain relieving on wires to the panel. (wires might break more easily in time.)
Knobs were not prepped and still had adhesive or areas of backing paper stuck to them.
But my biggest gripe was that the controls felt very different from real Moogs.
Plastic selector switches that felt different and pots that were oil damped.
COTK often used small sized Alpha type pots. Aluminum shafts with non-sealed bodies.
The common pot you'd find on most Japanese electronics in the past 30 years.
Moog modulars were made with larger, higher quality mil-spec pots with solid brass shafts and sealed enclosures.
They're more precise and required more torque to turn (ie: they're stiffer.)
One big problem is that by using these Japanese pots, the shaft sizes are metric not US.
They have slightly smaller diameter shafts than the proper .250" the knobs expect.
So the knob setscrews would be overtightened to take up the slack, but this causes the knobs not to rotate perfectly in a circle.
With the light action selectors, oil damped pots and off-center knobs, it felt weak and "drunk" instead of solid and precise.
I would hope that COTK has improved their construction methods and soldering since I took these photos.
I have doubts they're using any better parts on their front panels tho.
I think they have good intentions, but not a lot of experience with electronics or real Moogs.
I've only seen some early modules too, which may or may not be as things are now.
Then they didn't look like they would age, travel well or stand up to much abuse.
Maybe they're better now, but don't expect them to be just like Moogs in every respect- feel, sound, response, etc.
The front panels look like Moogs, but otherwise they're totally different creatures.