Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:19 am
I'd prefer not to hijack this nice person's thread.
Feel free to email me if you'd like.
Feel free to email me if you'd like.
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Minimoog 1974 restoration...
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Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 5:33 am
Good call, sorry about that tasters.
Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:28 pm
Hi guys and thanks to all for the great compliments.
I'm proud of my work but i'm still waiting for a set of new screws
In the beginning this mini was dead and the overload lamp was ever on:
i've replaced the fuses and this issue was solved.
also i've cleaned all pots, a full keyboard restoration and solved this problems (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNBj7RowUnk) replacing a small IC on the little buffer board.
now it work beautiful but still need a recapping, wich is the next step
the problem on this wood was the old black nitro paint, wich is now inside the fibers of the wood. i've only used a trasparent walnut paint, and this is the result is good about the old black under...
ciao!
I'm proud of my work but i'm still waiting for a set of new screws
In the beginning this mini was dead and the overload lamp was ever on:
i've replaced the fuses and this issue was solved.
also i've cleaned all pots, a full keyboard restoration and solved this problems (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNBj7RowUnk) replacing a small IC on the little buffer board.
now it work beautiful but still need a recapping, wich is the next step
JohnLRice wrote:Absolutely beautiful! Great job!
What wood stain brand and color did you use? I really like that!
I need to restore my Mini but I'm afraid that my wood sin't going to look particularly great even if I refinish it. (I have a later model)
the problem on this wood was the old black nitro paint, wich is now inside the fibers of the wood. i've only used a trasparent walnut paint, and this is the result
is good about the old black under...ciao!
Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:18 pm
If the screws you're waiting for are from me (synthfool or married_with_patchcords on Ebay) and are late, please let us know.
Fwiw, the 741 probably blew on the buffer board which caused the fuse to blow.
If the fuse is blown, the instrument will usually light the overload lamp upon power-up.
It should also be noted that the later oscillator board draws a lot of current.
More current for that board than the entire rest of the Mini.
So when that board is installed, there's less margin for problems and fuses blow more quickly.
Sometimes I will install a 1/2 amp fuse instead of the 1/4 amp when it's the last rev board and I expect the owner to want to use an external Moog sample and hold or ribbon controller.
The additional load of these devices can be too much for the Mini then and a fuse might blow, even though there's nothing actually wrong.
If you're replacing caps, also consider taking photos or using the present cap orientation as a guide. The schematic to the rectifier board with the large caps has a mistake and shows one cap backwards.
Many other errors in the service manual, but this one is fairly important.
If you install a 1000uf cap backwards, you'll be in for some fireworks.
Btw, I can provide a complete set of caps if you can't locate them elsewhere.
Somehow I doubt locating new caps will be very hard though.
Looks good!
Best of luck!
Fwiw, the 741 probably blew on the buffer board which caused the fuse to blow.
If the fuse is blown, the instrument will usually light the overload lamp upon power-up.
It should also be noted that the later oscillator board draws a lot of current.
More current for that board than the entire rest of the Mini.
So when that board is installed, there's less margin for problems and fuses blow more quickly.
Sometimes I will install a 1/2 amp fuse instead of the 1/4 amp when it's the last rev board and I expect the owner to want to use an external Moog sample and hold or ribbon controller.
The additional load of these devices can be too much for the Mini then and a fuse might blow, even though there's nothing actually wrong.
If you're replacing caps, also consider taking photos or using the present cap orientation as a guide. The schematic to the rectifier board with the large caps has a mistake and shows one cap backwards.
Many other errors in the service manual, but this one is fairly important.
If you install a 1000uf cap backwards, you'll be in for some fireworks.
Btw, I can provide a complete set of caps if you can't locate them elsewhere.
Somehow I doubt locating new caps will be very hard though.
Looks good!
Best of luck!
Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 2:34 am
Yeah, I've done that before. Won't do it again, though.Kevin Lightner wrote: If you install a 1000uf cap backwards, you'll be in for some fireworks.
Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 5:56 pm
I made a mistake about the error in the schematic regarding those capacitors.
The schematic for board #5 is correct, it's the parts pictorial that's wrong.
Two caps (C1 & C2) have their labels switched.
Just for the archives, if there are any....
The schematic for board #5 is correct, it's the parts pictorial that's wrong.
Two caps (C1 & C2) have their labels switched.
Just for the archives, if there are any....
Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:14 pm
taster i just bought the minimoog that was made 2 days later than yours 12/12/74 it was in great shape. im having it restored by Stephen Musucci. its my 2nd mini. i made the mistake of selling the first one in feb of 2008. i will post pictures when i get it back
Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 3:38 am
yes, i want to see the little brother
Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:05 pm
Taster I picked up your little brother Minimoog Serial # 6475 yesterday. It sounds Great. I was very lucky with this one, The cabinet and the controls were in great shape to begin with. I had the c/j connectors changed ,the keyboard disassembled and bushings changed and a few other things done. I Have pictures of the before and after but have no clue how to post them on this site.