Stripping a Model D

[Johnny V]

Hey guys, I recently picked up one of the later Model Ds ('79 by the serial) that's in nice shape, but the finish could use a little love. I plan on refinishing it and had a couple of questions for anyone who's been through the process:

1.) Does anyone know what type of finish they used? Is it varnish, lacquer, shellac, poly, etc..?

2.) Has anyone had success with a particular finish remover? I'd like to sand and scrape as little as possible (and not just because I'm lazy), but I won't bother with a solvent if it's just going to turn the finish to a sticky goop and make sanding more of a pain.

3.) Any suggestions on nice finish brands, shades, and/or techniques? I intend to do it right and don't mind hunting down premium products.

Thanks in advance!

[chromium]

I refinished my '74 D. It apparently had been spray-painted red at one point, and the fellow I got it from had managed to scrape away most of that and had it roughly back down to the original finish. The red pigment had soaked in, however, and so it still looked pretty funky.

I disassembled the whole enclosure and used Jasco varnish remover (from Ace Hardware, Lowe's, etc..) to get what was left of the original finish off. It would dry up in a crusty mess, but it wiped away easily enough and cleaned up with some naptha. I'm not sure what type of finish was used on these (this one was the butterscotch color originally), but it came off easily without much need to sand. That red paint was a killer, though! I actually ended up lightly wiping the whole case down in bleach and leaving it in the sun a couple hours... which helped to get the red pigment out of the wood. I only had to block sand the piece above the keyboard to get the paint-scraper/chisel marks out.

I prefer working with oil-based stains, and so I ended up using one from Ace called "Early American" (item #1158898). Not an original color by any means, but I like it. I just wiped it on, let it set for a bit, wiped off the excess, and then sprayed a light clear lacquer (Deft satin clear) over it. The following day, I went over the whole case lightly with some #0000 steel wool to remove any dust nibs, etc... It came out nice and smooth!

Here are some before/after pics:


Disassembled


I see red!


Stripping


Back in action

[thealien666]

Very nice job, chromium (Joe)!

I would like to eventually redo the finish on my Mini as well. It's not in bad shape, but the original stain/dye makes it look like cheap school furniture.

I'm wondering what is the best way to unglue the sides ? Is heat the only solution ? I don't want to risk damaging the wood with too much of it...

Also, the Moog logos would have to be re-used. Best way to take them off ?

Anyway, thanks for all the tips.

Alain.

[chromium]

Very nice job, chromium (Joe)!

I would like to eventually redo the finish on my Mini as well. It's not in bad shape, but the original stain/dye makes it look like cheap school furniture.

I'm wondering what is the best way to unglue the sides ? Is heat the only solution ? I don't want to risk damaging the wood with too much of it...

Also, the Moog logos would have to be re-used. Best way to take them off ?

Anyway, thanks for all the tips.

Alain.

Thanks!

Yeah be careful with the cabinet disassembly. You probably don't even have to go that far, but I chose to on mine just because of the state some of the wood pieces were in...

There were a bunch of little brad-nails that secure the sides to the cross-members. Once you remove the black base, you can pull those out from underneath using some needle-nose pliers. The glue seemed like hide glue, titebond, carpenters glue, etc... (IIRC), and just a wee bit of warmth from a heat gun loosened it up and the pieces separated really easily on mine.

For the badges, I just gently worked a paint scraper underneath them and very carefully lifted them from the case. To reinstall them after the finish work, I used Weldwood contact adhesive - same kinda stuff they use to install formica counters, etc... I'm sure there are other ways to do that, but that's held up well for me.

[till]

When I rebuilt my Minimoog housing from very long dried beechwood in late 1985, I used a clear polyurethane coating as used for high quality wooden staircases here in Germany. If applied with the right airless tools, you get a nice smooth and very strong cover. You get no finger stains near the wheels. And no sign of wearing in the last 24 years.

@chromium: where is the wooden block of the left hand section and the bar above the panel in the "Disassembled" picture?

[Johnny V]

Thanks for the tips and info folks. Nice job on that Chromium.

[torinkrell]

I have an original 1973 Minimoog which I believe has walnut wood. The wood is very dry and looks like it would benefit from some sort of reconditioning oil. What sort of oil or conditioning wood finish should I use? I don't want it to look too shiny but rather leave it more in keeping with its vintage nature. Thanks!

[EMwhite]

That thing is beautiful man. Really nice work.

I like the walking stick in glossy black also. Joe did a whitewash finish on mine to match my Old School Voyager finish but that black is classy.

[EricK]

Looks like she's atop a Mark II?

[chromium]

Thanks all for the kind words on the refin.

@Till - the smaller wood pieces- wood cap from the bender box, and the top strip above the panel- didn't make it into that exploded-case photo for whatever reason. The top strip was actually from another synth altogether - totally different color. All the more motivation for the refin! The old Mini had it where it counts, but looked like a real mongrel

@torinkrell - for treating dry wood without applying a finish to the surface, I'd look into something like linseed or walnut oil. These types of oils soak in and then cure inside the wood, which helps protect it without looking like a piano-gloss finish. I'd do some research on those and similar types of oil finishes, and if you try one - make sure to test it in an inconspicuous area to verify the results will be to your liking.

@EricK - yep that's a Mk II under it. That's another project I need to dig into. The action is really inconsistent across the length of the keyboard, and there are a couple keys where the guides (or whatever they are called - haven't looked into this yet in detail) are missing - and the keys move side-to-side. Fantastic cosmetic condition though, and even came with the lid, legs, and pedal. Got it local a few years ago for ~$300-something. I still play it, but it'll be sooo much nicer when I get a chance to refurb the keybed and set it all up properly. Love the Rhodes sound.

@EMwhite - Thanks! I like the black finish ribbons too. Unfortunately, none of these in the pics were mine I still have one here that got badly mangled in a postal sorting machine, and I set it aside so that I can repair/refin it in black one day and keep that one for myself. Have belt-sander, epoxy, and bondo, will travel!

If anything, I need a black ribbon for the Obie!

[Kevin Lightner]

I was considering making a video about this subject until I was reminded that the web is filled with stripping models.

[thealien666]

Hmmm, Kevin, I don't know which one I'd rather look at... ? That's a pretty "hard" choice to make...

[Voltor07]

I was considering making a video about this subject until I was reminded that the web is filled with stripping models.

Yeah, but really, who wants to pay for a webcam service, when one can just watch you on YouTube?

[Rob Smith]

I believe there is a tech In the Los Angeles area named Larry Flint that has some expertise in stripping models with size D's

[Kevin Lightner]

I believe there is a tech In the Los Angeles area named Larry Flint that has some expertise in stripping models with size D's

No, that would be Derek.
Larry was just some hustler.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Derek_Flint