connecting to DAWs. Preamps? DI's?

[ThosSounds]

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone here has a favorite means of connecting things like Little Phattys, Taurus III, etc to converters for a DAW like Pro Tools. In my own setup, I always run them into some sort of preamp with 1/4" ins first to get a better level in Pro Tools HD. Depending on the sound coming from the synth I might choose something like a True Systems P2 for higher register tones especially with a fast attack setting, but use something more like an Avalon U5 for the Taurus as I find it has more low end than the P2.

I've heard there are some sort of line level (not instrument level or mic level) DIs/Pres out there that are maybe the best way to go, but I'm not familiar with any specific products. In a perfect world, I can envision a "box" I could leave permanently connected to each synth that would add some gain and send a balanced output to the converters. Sounds like a DI box, but they usually don't have enough gain, and then there's this idea of using something that is looking for a line level input (like the Moogs) and not an instrument level input (like a bass or guitar).

Any thoughts? Thanks!

[paramnesia]

imo adding gain is not needed - moog analog outputs are plenty hot enough for line level inputs, and some users have to pad down inputs to prevent clipping

maybe amos will let us know what the max voltage out is on a sub37...

now if you want further analog coloration, look at some tube mastering processors, but that's usually done in post, not during tracking

what problem are you trying to solve?

if you are compressing with the during tracking, are you using any make up gain, analog or digital?

[mattyp]

I don't think the op has any problems, just asking what preamps others use.
i am using focusrite pre's into protools. I do need to invest in more pre's since i am currently building a new purpose built studio.
i believe radial might make a line level type di box
maybe something like J+4

[MoogProg]

...some users have to pad down inputs to prevent clipping

^This is me. Any suggestions for a good attenuation solution that doesn't suck tone? I'd like to send a signal to digital around -18db but by the time I dial the just right tone everything is usually well above 0db.

Not quite sure how to bridge these hot analog signals to the low-level wants of modern inputs. All advice appreciated.

[JonLukas]

I just recently purchased a Radial Pro48 active direct box. I've only just started using it, but it does sound great. I'm using to connect my Sub 37 to an XLR input on my live mixer (QSC Touchmix). I need to use the -15db pad to avoid overload. By using the ground lift I was able to remove some computer-sounding noise that was present when hooking up directly to the mixer.

http://www.radialeng.com/pro48.php

[ChiLam]

Is the ground lift a feature of the RadialPro unit or is it something you must perform yourself?

[JonLukas]

Is the ground lift a feature of the RadialPro unit

Yes. There's a button to activate/deactivate the pad. <--- [ PS: Oops! You were asking about ground lift, and that is what I meant, though there is a switch for the pad too ]

[ChiLam]

Is the ground lift a feature of the RadialPro unit

Yes. There's a button to activate/deactivate the pad.

Thanks

[c7sus]

Radial JDI is a nice DI too. Passive DI so no phantom power required.

My usual setup for playing at home is Voyager> MoogerFooger outputs to Mackie 1402 with trim set at unity and levels controlled by MF output knob> Carver PM-120 amp> Klipsch KG-2 and KRK 10s sub barely cracked at about 9-o'clock with crossover at about 80Hz.

For recording I have used Voyager/T3/MoogerFooger(s)> JDI> Davisound TB-10 mic pre> LynxAudio 2A> Sonar.

For interface with Leslie speaker it's Voyager/T3/MF's> GT Brick> Leslie. Very crunchy with the Leslie dimed!

For a nice "woody" tone try a Voyager into a Victoria 512 guitar amp. Nice and gritty when cranked without taking paint off the walls and having the cops stop by for a chat.

[mmarsh100]

I often hook my Sub37 up to my Neve Portico 511 pre. It doesn't do much to the sound other than make it *more* sounding. Is that vague enough? It's hard to describe, but the Neve is doing something something without altering the basic timbre. So it's not as much about input matching and such for me, rather more about sound sculpting in a subtle way.

[Birkonium]

I have a rather modest setup with only a two channel I/O box - an Apogee Duet I (the older firewire one).

The Duet has built in pres with 75dB of gain and I have to say I am seriously impressed with that box. Apparently, the duet does not have the same pres and A/Ds that their more expensive boxes have but as far as home audio goes, I am super impressed with how they sound. The pre-A/D of the Apogee stuff is extremely clean sounding but not in a bad way. They don't sound sterile but they also don't color the sound much at all. Very clean and smooth is how I'd describe them. Even the D/A is noticeably superior to the lower end products.

Just for reference, I've spent a reasonable amount of time in pro studios with high end gear to which I can compare to. I'm not a pro but, I've had enough exposure to pro gear to know what sounds good and what doesn't.

I got the Duet after using a number of the cheapie A/D boxes like Lexicon etc. and there is simply no comparison in sound compared to the duet. I've got some experience with Focusrite and while their A/Ds sound pretty good the pres in the Duet are much better - very close or equal to pro gear quality.

If I had the cash laying around, I'd pick up an Apogee Ensemble and that would outfit my needs very well, and apparently it's got the better converters as well.