Moog Music Forum

I hooked my MuRF up in stereo last night for the first time, and seem to have encountered a problem. When it is bypassed, the signal only appears to be sent to the left/mono output, and not both. Does it only output to both when active? It's a bass MuRF btw.

Don't know if this will help you alot....but if i look at the Bass Murf manual it states the following :

AUDIO PATH: The bypassed signal goes to the LEFT/ MONO
output jack. Thus, when the Bass MuRF is bypassed, the signal at
the LEFT/MONO output jack is the same as what your instrument
is producing, and there is no signal at the right output jack. The
MF-105B will not pass an audio signal unless power is applied to
it.

Also keep in mind to use TS cables for the audio signals.

Thanks, I missed that in the manual. Answers my question, and is actually quite disappointing...I was hoping the signal would be sent to both outputs when bypassed.

there is a little pad on the circuit board that is like a jumper; you can add a blob of solder there to change the bypass from mono to stereo.

My preference would have been to have stereo bypass be the default, but apparently it slightly weakens the audio output to split it from one channel (mono in) to two channels (stereo out), so mono bypass is the default. Stereo is an option, though... as long as you have access to a nice soldering iron with a fine tip.

Cheers,

Amos

oh hang on; it's only a soldering issue on the new MIDI MuRF.

If you open the back of the regular or bass murf, there is a big obvious black plastic jumper on a row of three pins to set bypass mono/stereo. If it's mono now, move the jumper to the other position and it will be stereo. Easy peasy.

-Amos

Amos wrote:"there is a little pad on the circuit board that is like a jumper; you can add a blob of solder there to change the bypass from mono to stereo."

Amos,

Is the pad labelled on the circuit board? Could a switch be soldered into the pad, instead of just shorting it with a blob of solder? Would there be any grounding issues if the switch was then mounted to the bottom cover?

Edit: Is there even enough room to mount the switch to the bottom cover?

Thanks,
Bob

Amos wrote:oh hang on; it's only a soldering issue on the new MIDI MuRF.

If you open the back of the regular or bass murf, there is a big obvious black plastic jumper on a row of three pins to set bypass mono/stereo. If it's mono now, move the jumper to the other position and it will be stereo. Easy peasy.

-Amos

Thanks Amos, great help. Of course I will be replacing my Bass MuRF with a MIDI MuRF at some point, so I will need to get soldering...

Atomicunderware wrote:Thanks Amos, great help. Of course I will be replacing my Bass MuRF with a MIDI MuRF at some point, so I will need to get soldering...

You don't need soldering...just like Amos said...just move the jumper...

thanks Amos i had the same question

Prime NL wrote:

Atomicunderware wrote:Thanks Amos, great help. Of course I will be replacing my Bass MuRF with a MIDI MuRF at some point, so I will need to get soldering...

You don't need soldering...just like Amos said...just move the jumper...

I meant I'll need to get soldering when I get the MIDI MuRF

Atomicunderware wrote:I meant I'll need to get soldering when I get the MIDI MuRF

Lol...that's true...i get it now...

The short answer as to whether it would be OK to solder a switch to the Midi Murf to enable mono/stereo bypass mode-switching is... I haven't tried it, so I don't know. But it sounds like it would be OK.

Yes the pads are labeled: "IN to L&R" above the pads, and "JMP3" written vertically to the left of the pads. Location is upper middle of the circuit board as you look into the underside of the pedal with bottom plate removed.

Cheers,

Amos

Amos wrote:The short answer as to whether it would be OK to solder a switch to the Midi Murf to enable mono/stereo bypass mode-switching is... I haven't tried it, so I don't know. But it sounds like it would be OK.

Yes the pads are labeled: "IN to L&R" above the pads, and "JMP3" written vertically to the left of the pads. Location is upper middle of the circuit board as you look into the underside of the pedal with bottom plate removed.

Cheers,

Amos

Thanks, Amos.

Bob

Hi everybody!

I was just going to solder my "DIY True ByPASS /Active Splitter" with the integrated board of a Palmer PGA03 and a 4PST Footswitch...
And I just descoverd this solution on this topic!

So 1st: Thank's Amos!!!!
but I have a small question about the signal path:

when you say:

but apparently it slightly weakens the audio output to split it from one channel (mono in) to two channels (stereo out),

Do you mean that it's like a passive y splitter?
Do we loose some signal?
Or does the bypassed signal thru a buffered output ?

Just because I don't realy want to get a loss of signal...
Thanks!

(Sorry for my English)

Hi,

Ive been looking for an answer, and found it! Second question; My moog 104m delay keeps the input and output level controls active all the time regardless bypass status. Id like this for my midi-murf too. Is this possible achieve via one of the jumpers or some other setting?

Allthebest Thor