Moog Music Forum

I bought the voodoo 2 power plus a while ago. Simply doesn't cut it.

While they do provide enough power to light up my LP / Ring Mod and I agree there is no noise issues. You do however seem to lose some punch when cranking the drive knob. This may be just in my head :/

More importantly the voodoo power source doesn't have the juice to run the clusterflux or midimurf.

The maximum output of the voodoo is 250mA and the cluster flux needs a minimum of 300 mA and the midimurf seems to need above 250mA.

I returned the voodoo power source and returned to power bars and wall warts. With which I respond by saying that moog needs to get a power source out the door. Setting up and breaking down powersources and wall warts is miserable.

Is it possible to make a suitable multiple output power supply using a linear supply and custom cable harness from something like a synths.com power supply?

lchorney wrote:I bought the voodoo 2 power plus a while ago. Simply doesn't cut it....

More importantly the voodoo power source doesn't have the juice to run the clusterflux or midimurf.

...The maximum output of the voodoo is 250mA and the cluster flux needs a minimum of 300 mA and the midimurf seems to need above...

Regarding the amperage needs of those units and the Voodoo PP2 - I thought I read that you could combine outputs from the Voodoo using a y-cable to cover the extra mA needed? I don't have the Voodoo so cannot comment, what I can tell you is my CIOKS DC-10 provides adequate power for my MF-105m & MF-108m as well as the CP-251, MF-101, MF-102, MF-103 & MF-107! If I had a MF-104 it could power that too. No Y-cables needed, all from one very neat box with one mains power cord. No wall-warts, it has made a big difference for me. (see my previous post on the set-up with MF's & the Cioks. I would recommend this unit as a Fooger solution anyday. (and no, I don't work for Cioks)

Power multiple foogers with a single ps is not a big deal. See my earlier post in this thread.



Pictured here are two low cost switching power supplies. The one on the left is the original ps that was shipping with the Big Briar MoogerFoogers. Rated a .66 amp, it can power two or more of the lower consumption foogers. On the right is a very common 12v, 2 amp switching power supply. This one alone can power ALL the foogers in the catalog, plus a CP-251 and then some. It's adequate as is for many foogers, although care should be exercised with others, like the MF-105 and MF-107, whose specification call for 9v and for which voltage should be tapered down a bit (with a 7809). That unit came with a USB external drive I use a storage backup unit (I got a dozen of those sitting idle in a drawer). Bought at an electronics house, expect to pay a whopping 10 bucks for a similar unit, and if well stocked, the store probably have them in the 9 volts version too.

In either case, you can plug six of them on a single power bar. In the latter case, you could power 30, 40 or more foogers from a single power bar.

You can split and splice connector leads, build a more elaborate set-up with connectors on both side of leads (extra cost and work with very little advantage overall), or use a ....(don't know what they are called) multi connector strip with screws.

If there is any interest, I'll post how-to pictures on how to use them at next to no cost.

NO!

Switching-mode power supplies while efficient, can & often do introduce noise into audio systems.
ESPECIALLY daisy chained devices sharing the same supply without properly filtered, NON-isolated outputs.

While you can indeed power a clutch of Foogers with these units, there's a reason they sell for $25.
I prefer unadulterated sonic quality & recommend properly isolated units such as the PP2+ & Cioks.

The Voodoo part is #PPAP for the current-doubling Wye.
You'll need two of them for the "Magic 6" set of Foogers.



Needing just over 1A, here's my guitar rig setup with the PP2+:

MF-101 (100mA) Voodoo #1 @100mA
MF-102 (100mA) Voodoo #2 @100mA
MF-103 (100mA) Voodoo #3 @100mA
MF-108M (300mA) Voodoo #4 @100mA & Voodoo #5 @250mA
MF-105 (240mA) Voodoo #6 @250mA
MF-107 (200mA) Voodoo #7 @100mA & Voodoo #8 @100mA

I have 6/7 of my Foogers racked for guitar so I'll move the MF-104Z (300mA) to my Phatty & put the new Cluster in its place.

YES to properly isolated power supplies. Why spend lots of money on expensive equipment and then juice them with hum- and noise-inducing adapters?

I am using the Burkey Flatliner Pro to power my MF101, MF102, MF103, MF104 & MF107.

9 completely isolated outputs. All outputs are tip-negative, so you'll need polarity inverted cables to power the Foogers.
- 5 Outputs 9 Volt DC, 200 mA, short-circuit protected with a current-limitation on 200 mA
- 1 Output 12 Volt DC, 200 mA, short-circuit protected with a current-limitation on 200 mA
- 1 Output variable ca. 3-9 Volt ; V = voltage, R = resistance ( 0…20 Ohm)
- 1 Output variable ca. 3-12 Volt ; V = voltage, R = resistance ( 0…20 Ohm)
- 1 Output 9 or 12VAC, capacity 1000 mA

Nice set-up DeFrag. Definitely isolated Power supply is the way to go. Here is a look at my home made set-up. & how the cioks sits neatly at the back of my cabinet/rack...

Thanks mate, nice setup yourself... beAUTIFUL job!

So I suppose this thread dies with a final & cohesive solidarity of isolated output power recommendation to MoogerFoogers without challenge &/or lives on as valued reference for future conversion of 1Spot fanatics to clean quality power feeding our beloved.

Either way, the outcome is the same heh.

I can be a bit verbose at times but its fun. How about some closer pics of your setup punk?

lchorney wrote:The maximum output of the voodoo is 250mA and the cluster flux needs a minimum of 300 mA and the midimurf seems to need above 250mA.

You can get current doublers for the Voodoo for about $5/pop. FYI...

[hmm...somehow this post was delayed until after the flurry of other responses, one of which said the same thing...]

Just found this....looks to be a viable option for powering multiple foogers. I've never heard of the company, so I'm not sure about the quality.

http://www.electronbluemusic.com/Blue_Power_12.html

Oh my god... So I posted earlier how I modified a power supply to split off the voltages, but at the time I couldnt comment on how noisy it was...

WELL, it turns out, that solution was CRAZY noisy... Its funny, you dont really notice how much noise you have until its gone... the silence is golden!

I bought the CIOKS DC-10 on a whim just to try it out (was a toss up between that and the voodoo PP2), and holy carp... it is amazing! I can ALMOST use my MF101 again (still picks up NPR from the radio towers across the street, but its way more manageable)! All the other foogers are silent, i can patch em together with no added noise, CV, audio, everything, you name it... QUIET!

So, now that I have a good idea how to get my studio clean, im going to be buying some AC power conditioner/filters... power strip/surge protectors just arent cutting it...

I've been dealing with crappy noise for way too long... grumble grumble.

Anyone tried T-rex Fuel Tank Chameleon?

http://t-rex-effects.com/products/fuelt ... eon-1.aspx

That's what's available here. Got five foogers and it's time to give the power without all the wall warts.



And what makes this one so cheap?

http://www.thomann.de/se/harley_benton_powerplant.htm

The Fuel Tank should do the trick. It has a total supply current of 5x 300mA or 1500mA total.

The other only provides a total of 500mA, 500mA / 8 or 8x62.5mA if all are drawing the same current; meaning it doesn't have much juice. It is likely not a toroidal transformer either, meaning noise will be an issue. Probably not good enough to run a Berlinger pedal board. But it could run 100 or so Zvex Fuzz Factories!

You spent the money on the foogers, don't cheap out on the power!!

No, I'll definitely won't be cheap on power supply. Was just wondering about what made it cheaper. The Fuel Tank is the way to go for me after checking out what's available. Can't wait to put all those wall warts in a bag and in the attic. I hope there are cords for + in the middle though. I can solder, but it gets more fragile when the plastic isn't molded around the connectors. I have bad experiences with those 9V-connectors.

I use pussy power.
Pink power

Doesnt work so good with my 107. Creates hi freq noise. Other than that its great.
Cioks is good stuff.