Done...
- Jrayk Roze
- Posts: 113
- Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 10:13 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
Lucky for me, the gunk on my front panel switches went away with some simple fingernail application. They seem to get smoother over time, too.
Has anyone else noticed that you have to wear-in the knobs?
When I first got my OS, I was disappointed with the weak resistance. After a couple of months of tweaking, they got much better and stronger, though. Is it because dust has to compile behind them?
Has anyone else noticed that you have to wear-in the knobs?
When I first got my OS, I was disappointed with the weak resistance. After a couple of months of tweaking, they got much better and stronger, though. Is it because dust has to compile behind them?
Voyager Old School #0005, Etherwave #18321, Stereo Memory Man w/ Hazarai, CP-251, and a Nord Lead 2X
Some of the knobs are looser than others....and NOT ones that would get alot of action like the wave or the cilter cutoff....im talking like the VCA decay or something like that that I really don' tyuse often is weaker than the cutoff.
But I think the weakest one by far is the Freq knob on my Ringmod.
I have always wondered if the pots wear down from continued tweaking...but then continued tweaking KEEPS dust and static from getting inside right?'
And some pots are sealed really tight right?
Eric
But I think the weakest one by far is the Freq knob on my Ringmod.
I have always wondered if the pots wear down from continued tweaking...but then continued tweaking KEEPS dust and static from getting inside right?'
And some pots are sealed really tight right?
Eric
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I've got a Little Phatty, and the knobs have been consistently loose. Nature of the beast, and I don't mind because they are stiffer than the DSI products. The Moogerfoogers, on the other hand, have not been loose...except for the Mixer knobs on the CP-251. those HAVE tightened up with use. So I dunno what the dealyo is with that.
Minitaur, CP-251, EHX #1 Echo, EHX Space Drums/Crash Pads, QSC GX-3, Pyramid stereo power amp, Miracle Pianos, Walking Stick ribbon controller, Synthutron.com, 1983 Hammond organ, dot com modular.
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- Posts: 86
- Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 10:39 pm
- Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
The knobs on my OS are all reasonably stiff, and consistently from one to the other. They're not the sealed types (like the Allen Bradley type used in the original Minimoog) but they're of the Alpha brand (made in U.S.A.) with an expected life cycle of 10000+ turns!
Of course with time, the silicone gel in the bushing of the shafts that makes the stiffness will dilute somewhat and the most tweaked knobs will eventually get easier to turn than others (then again maybe not! ) . Also, with higher temperatures that stuff becomes more more liquid.
Of course with time, the silicone gel in the bushing of the shafts that makes the stiffness will dilute somewhat and the most tweaked knobs will eventually get easier to turn than others (then again maybe not! ) . Also, with higher temperatures that stuff becomes more more liquid.
Last edited by alainhubert on Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Jrayk Roze
- Posts: 113
- Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2008 10:13 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
My Old School was less than perfect when I received it, brand new. Four adjacent keys (I can't remember which ones) made a loud clacking sound and you could feel them hitting the metal part of the chassis when you played them. The aftertouch on the last two keys barely did anything and the legato mode on/off stopped working about a day after I got it. Also, the pitchwheel would "stick" at its lowest note position. I just sent it back to musiciansfriend for a replacement. Unfortunately, the one they replaced it with was obviously someone else's "Return" as it had the Moog sticker already stuck on it and when I tried to register it online it said the product was already registered. That being said, it was in better physical working order than the previous one and it didn't really show any signs of having been used before so I kept it since it's really an unbelievable pain in the ass to move these things around and ship them. In either case, I would not consider either of the Old School's that I got to be "calibrated" right from the factory, which I'm kind of pissed about because it is a big deal to calibrate these. I don't see the point in sending it back to Moog to do the job they supposedly had already done at the factory. I'm just going to do it on my own. Heh, all that aside, I'm pretty happy with the Old School. I gotta say though, if you're not already comfortable spending a couple of grand on one piece of gear, then don't let this be the first one you buy, unless you've physically gotten to inspect and seriously try out the exact unit you're buying, there's a very good chance the one you get isn't going to be perfect. It's a very well built synth, no doubt, but ~$2K doesn't really go that far on a piece of electronic/mechanical gear this complex, so it's not the quality equivalent of buying a ~$2K guitar, it's more like the quality equivalent of an ~$800 guitar.
Voyager Old School • Haken Continuum w/CVC • Hammond C-3/BC/A/M-3 • Leslie 122/142/45/46 • Clavinet D6 • Wurlitzer 206A • Yamaha CS01 • Pianet N • Casio CDP-100
Yeah it was a bummer... I don't remember my serial # off-hand, I think it was 160-something. Heh, I thought I had posted in under the OS serial number thread but I don't see it.
Voyager Old School • Haken Continuum w/CVC • Hammond C-3/BC/A/M-3 • Leslie 122/142/45/46 • Clavinet D6 • Wurlitzer 206A • Yamaha CS01 • Pianet N • Casio CDP-100
Hmm... Well the first one I initially got had no sticker applied; the sticker was "new" and inside the packaging for the user to stick wherever they wanted. The second one I got didn't come with any new sticker, and the sticker that was already on the unit looked like it was haphazardly applied. Heh, if you're saying yours came with the sticker, then maybe some of them did (If you're looking straight at the Moog as though playing it, the sticker is in the back on the left side) but if that's the case, heh then they need some QA with their sticker applications 'cause the one on mine is really sloppily applied. Heh, now that you remind me I've been meaning to take that off...
Voyager Old School • Haken Continuum w/CVC • Hammond C-3/BC/A/M-3 • Leslie 122/142/45/46 • Clavinet D6 • Wurlitzer 206A • Yamaha CS01 • Pianet N • Casio CDP-100
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- Posts: 86
- Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2009 10:39 pm
- Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Hmmmm. From reading the last few posts, I'm beginning to wonder if there are more "returned" Old School out there than really brand new units? It wouldn't be surprising to find out that a lot of people bought it, then realized that they needed MIDI and returned the synth in exchange for a regular Voyager...
As for the sticker issue, mine also had it already in the same place as a few others have mentioned. And it was put there correctly. So maybe some of them were put there at the factory?
As for the sticker issue, mine also had it already in the same place as a few others have mentioned. And it was put there correctly. So maybe some of them were put there at the factory?
Last edited by alainhubert on Thu Mar 05, 2009 1:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
I would have preferred to see a badge there, like something screwed onto the back panel, or screen printed on there rather than a sticker. But min is on there perfectly straight and thats good enough for me.
Just not a badge thats breakable like the fender rhodes badges.
Hell, I wish they woudl sell badges so I coudl put one on my car lol.
Eric
Just not a badge thats breakable like the fender rhodes badges.
Hell, I wish they woudl sell badges so I coudl put one on my car lol.
Eric
Support the Bob Moog Foundation:
https://moogfoundation.org/do-something-2/donate/
I think I hear the mothership coming.
https://moogfoundation.org/do-something-2/donate/
I think I hear the mothership coming.