Post your latest purchase!!

[EMwhite]

I had it together long enough to try it; definitely aggressive! Haven't gotten it settled into the case properly yet because the box I bought from GGG is wrong (the proper one was out of stock) so as a result it has an additional footswitch hole as you can see in the pic, the first (right hand) footswitch hole is in the wrong place also (it should be closer to the corner) and I had to drill a hole for the LED.

Came out OK but I'm struggling to figure out what to do with the 2nd footswitch. I have some Vactrols and was thinking about wiring up a footswitch activated jack that could be used with expression pedal or CV control like an LFO to vary one of the pots. TIGHT enough as it is; I underestimated the size of the board and the depth of the switches when I figured the 2 switch box might be a good choice for an add-on project.

Going to throw in the towel if I don't come up with something by next weekend; I just want to play with it. Flea is a bass hero of mine and he uses the Malekko and a MF-101, not much else in the effect department.

If you are just getting started with the Freqbox, you'll soon find that it takes the place of the B:assmaster as the most annoying effect when dialed in anything but perfectly. It also won't track well unless you have an expertly tweaked compressor/limiter and even then, for some reason, waveforms and tuning towards 9 o'clock on the dial are especially difficult to work with due to poor tracking.

I WAS using my FreqBox as an additional oscillator for my Little Phatty but eventually sold it on eBay and picked up an extra MU OSC with the $$. Haven't looked back. That dude ebo makes very very very very good use of the FreqBox, just wasn't for me.

[Mudfuzz]

I had it together long enough to try it; definitely aggressive! Haven't gotten it settled into the case properly yet because the box I bought from GGG is wrong (the proper one was out of stock) so as a result it has an additional footswitch hole as you can see in the pic, the first (right hand) footswitch hole is in the wrong place also (it should be closer to the corner) and I had to drill a hole for the LED.

Came out OK but I'm struggling to figure out what to do with the 2nd footswitch. I have some Vactrols and was thinking about wiring up a footswitch activated jack that could be used with expression pedal or CV control like an LFO to vary one of the pots. TIGHT enough as it is; I underestimated the size of the board and the depth of the switches when I figured the 2 switch box might be a good choice for an add-on project.

Going to throw in the towel if I don't come up with something by next weekend; I just want to play with it. Flea is a bass hero of mine and he uses the Malekko and a MF-101, not much else in the effect department.

If you are just getting started with the Freqbox, you'll soon find that it takes the place of the B:assmaster as the most annoying effect when dialed in anything but perfectly. It also won't track well unless you have an expertly tweaked compressor/limiter and even then, for some reason, waveforms and tuning towards 9 o'clock on the dial are especially difficult to work with due to poor tracking.

I WAS using my FreqBox as an additional oscillator for my Little Phatty but eventually sold it on eBay and picked up an extra MU OSC with the $$. Haven't looked back. That dude ebo makes very very very very good use of the FreqBox, just wasn't for me.

I've found that if you max the input on a freq they track really well... and I've built.. 6-7 things from GGG and they almost always get something wrong with the order...

[Brian G]

Roland Duo-Capture EX audio midi interface. Using primarily with the iPad, works great so far. You need the camera capture kit to brin the Roland in through USB and you need to power the Roland with either its AA batteries or a wall wart.

Thought about the Alesis, but for me this was the best choice. I think in some situations it is easier to place just the iPad on top of something,or in your lap while the interface is someplace else. Also the Roland can do double duty as an audio midi interface on your computer when you are not using it on the iPad. The Roland is slightly more expensive, but for me it was worth it, mic pres also sound pretty darn good.

[muksys]

Finally, after years and years of pinning and wishful thinking, a Voyager OS arrived at my doorstep today! I couldn't be happier! Thank you Bob!!

[MC]

Nice!

[americankiwi]

Im over the Moon!!
Just Purchased another Minimoog D of Ebay this will be MINI #3 for me!
she's #5921
as soon as it arrives...photos will follow!
this is a fixer upper unit missing the back cover and the filter card
the owner says he has the back cover for it somewhere but cant find it right now
he's cleaning out his studio

can anyone help with either parts?

[CZ Rider]

can anyone help with either parts?

Nice find and great price too!
Could try this Ebay vendor. No experience buying from, but they have been making replacement ARP modules for a while. Not original but an inexpensive replacement if you just need a VCF board.
Ebay auction for Mini VCF board

[Kevin Lightner]

I have full mechanical drawings for back panels done by my friend at Tesla Automotive.
Problem is, making just one costs a lot. Making many costs a lot.
So they're remained here as CAD drawings.

[americankiwi]

Hi Kevin...how much is a "costs a lot" ??

[Kevin Lightner]

Hi Kevin...how much is a "costs a lot" ??

It depends on the fabricators, but consider what needs to be done:

1. Cutting
2. Bending
3. Punching
4. Welding
5. Finishing (light brushing and/or clear anodizing.)

This would likely require two companies, since most metal fabricators can't do step 5.
Setting up and performing 1-4 for a single piece will usually have a surcharge too.
I don't have any exact figures, but I'm guessing several hundred dollars.

[thealien666]

There's a guy who decided to build a Minimoog D replica from scratch, around on the web. Here's what he had to say about the back panel along with a picture of it:

"The rear cover of the Minimoog is made from 0.050" thick aluminum, and has a bend across its entire width, which I was not able to make with my little brake using 0.063" aluminum. Also, most of them have welds along the joints between the sides and the top part, which I cannot do. My cover uses a separate piece for the top part, fastened with right angle pieces to the back. (I will cut holes for the trimmers soon) "


I don't know how much his cost to make. But I suspect a little less than a professionally made one.

Here's the link to the full project:
http://www.tauntek.com/DIYMinimoog.htm

[Kevin Lightner]

Very interesting DIY effort.
I suspect his time doing it was quite enormous though.
I don't recall if he asked me for any parts, but I've got a lot of buffer boards and duo-tyne connectors and pins.
If he did it for $500, I applaud him.
Time IS money though.

[Kevin Lightner]

Very interesting DIY effort.
I suspect his time doing it was quite enormous though.
I don't recall if he asked me for any parts, but I've got a lot of buffer boards and duo-tyne connectors and pins.
If he did it for $500, I applaud him.
Time IS money though.

Update: I just noticed he spent $730 not $500.

[thealien666]

Yeah, that must have been extremely time consuming indeed ! Just the hand wiring of all the front panel switches and pots...whew !
Curiously, before I got my hands on my Mini, I had started to replicate the filter board as a side project. Never did finish it, lack of time and will.
Here's a couple of photos of my abandoned efforts...

[muksys]

Hand-wire a bunch of pots & switches you say?



I am completely into this build though. Thanks for the link! Got me thinking of doing the same. Should be fun. I need a new build that will take a lot longer a couple weeks to complete.