In that case I see your point absolutely. Because Hammond (and some other organs and synths) have waterfall keyboards which allows a certain style of playing that, in combination with the sound engine, creates an unique sound.
Sure do see the point, but are we comparing the Sub37 to the Model D and expecting the same keybed response because we hope to play the same classic parts the same way on two different instruments? Seems to me only keybeds with aftertouch need apply.
This is surely the reason beneath the deeper trigger point (pun intended), and possibly also the loosening up of the pads as they break-in.
Of course, complete speculation from one who has not yet finished a single cup of coffee this morning.
Does anyone have instructions for removing the keyboard from the Sub 37?
I’m just about ready to open it up and try to find replacement springs myself. If I do find springs that work well, I will post here and let everyone know.
You know about your warranty being ruined right? Don’t hesitate to take pictures of the inside and post them here
Please please please?
further investigation today showed that a lose white plastic piece I found in the box of my SUB 37 turned out to be one of the key weights from under the keys!!
- I thought that key felt a bit different. I’ve manage to clip it back in (just enough room) without dismantling, but the key sounds very clacky now vs the rest (not damped), and I think the weight just makes the sound more evident, it was probably there before! I don’t know if something inside is broken off the key so it’s not touching it’s return felt or whatever but it’s a bit annoying. I may have to get in touch with moog to send me a new C key as it currently feels and sounds like something off a toy keyboard. ![]()
There won’t be much inside to look at - control panel will be an enclosed PCB (so no knobs to look at) and mainboard will be a small thing full of SMT - it won’t look like old analogs, but no new analog synths do these days really.
I had a dead key upon arrival. I called Andy and he walked me through removing the keybed and fixing it on the spot without voiding the warranty. Works great now!
Sounds promising! Can someone recommend a keyboard brand/model, which can be ordered and fitted on the Sub 37 (as close to the Voyager action as possible)? Thanks. ![]()
Back in the day pro instruments were made to flip their lids to replace parts like keys (esp for tourers) so it would be a bit short-sighted to lose warranty just by changing a key (and sending it back to moog from across the world would also be a bit silly). Keys are easy to change on synths like this, it’s making sure you don’t go stabbing your screwdriver into the mainboard (with it powered up) that some people have trouble with I guess. ![]()
True. I may have spent more of my life under the hood of my Fender Rhodes than in front of it.
I’m primarily a keys player, and after only 2 weeks, they are already much more playable. It’s possible to break them in.
Hi Guys,
Andy from Moog Tech Support here!!!
Subber37: My apologies that your key weight became dislodged, if you will please contact me directly at andy@moogmusic.com I can either send you a new key and walk you through the installation, or if you prefer it is possible to use super glue to reattach the key weight. The former solution I think is superior.
To all above discussing the tension on the keys of the Sub 37, I have provided this feedback to our engineering department for future revisions of the keyboard, and I am attempting to source lighter tension springs for this keybed. Once I have these in sufficient quantities, I will post here and you guys can request these springs for changing out on your Sub 37.
Thanks,
Andy Hughes
Service Department Manager
Moog Music, Inc.
Thanks for the Info and promise on those tension springs Andy. Very nice. Looking forward for the News.
Best wishes
I have a Nord A1 stacked above my Sub37… just hobby use you understand not in a band or anything.. but I find fast runs on the A1 easier than the Sub37 and would welcome a slightly lighter touch to the Sub37 when the springs become available
R.
I have over two weeks of sub 37 and noticed a slight problem with the keyboard. A couple of keys has a different amount … How is this possible in such a class instrument? Should I be worried?
For example, photos:
https://goo.gl/photos/j2zWSMKvsmNgZFrU7
http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gzFsumb_bmQ/maxresdefault.jpg
https://www.gearslutz.com/board/attachments/electronic-music-instruments-electronic-music-production/409880d1406746523-moog-sub-37-sub37_keyboard.jpg
wow, that’s why I love Moog so much.
never seen a better user oriented support.
you all did a great job!
I would also prefer the lighter springs. Thanks for looking in to it.
I guess I’d prefer lighter springs too - esp for the black keys! Also I think these springs on this fairly ahem cheap keybed is causing them to not sit straight and a bit wonky.. well maybe it’s the springs who knows. One of my keys bends to the left a little leaving a larger gap between keys (I often see this on old old synths with wear but suprised to find it on a brand new modern synth!
- )
Will be in touch about a poss key replacement for this rattly - weight off key. Thanks Andy!
I have had replace all the keybed from my SubPhatty by the local dealer for al the click-sounds but after a while it was the same again. And Yesterday when I played it it was even worse.
It starts at the middle A key. The key itself is also wobbly and every time I press it you hear this plastic clicks.
What shall I do.
This springs offer also for owners of a SubPhatty?
And second whats’s the best way to replace them (warranty) I am not a techie…
Hi
I got that uneven key bed and the hard key feel too.