Geeky question, Is it possible to route the db 25 connector on a VX-351 back top panel (where the power supply goes on the cp251) ? The location of the vx db connector looks to be a in the way PITA.
Thanks
Dean
It is awkward, isn’t it. There’s a 26 pin header on the VX-351 board so nothing stopping you from getting a longer cable and new DB-25 and moving it. I would just abandon the connector that is there (leave it).
The hardship is that you wont’ be able to sneak the connector off the 13x2 header pins without pulling the board (too tight inside) and that means popping all 30-something caps from the 1/4" jack plug sockets without marking up the lexan face decal. I say “caps” and “sockets” because these are not traditional metal 1/4" jacks; they are plastic caps which merely LOOK like 1/4" nuts. There are two slots which you can carefully pry a flat screwdriver into and a slight twist will release. Knobs pop off and obviously there are two nuts on the DB-25 which can be left affixed. (not sure if they are all like this but mine certainly is!)
Once you get the panel free, you can get the header off, have it wrap around the board and have enough clearance for an 8" or so flat ribbon to your new DB-25.
Thanks Mr EMWhite
Seems like a PITA. Have you done it?
Dean
I have not but I curse that damn cable every day! Too many projects in line before I jump onto that, it’s doable certainly; I think the hardest part will be sourcing the exact parts required and not placing an order w/Mouser weekly across a month until I got it right.
If I did do it, I would likely let the ribbon float out of the back of the rack mount; cutting a DB shaped hole is not easy; usually it’s stamped before folding/bending; I tried my hand at a rectangular hole in a 2mm aluminum MU panel with a Dremel and even with about as stead a hand as I could manage, and heavy filing I still wasn’t happy with it. And the metal on the VX is much heavier.
If you attempt it yourself, take good pictures and post it here so others can attempt.
Though the photo isn’t right (they have the same picture for the “Right Angle Up” and “Right Angle Down” models),
this would at least get it slightly out of the way:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/83-13193
I may have to try it myself!
Fookin brilliant man!
Stephen
.