Made good headway getting my recently acquired 1130 up and running… it was in bits with parts missing when I got it. I’ve made a temporary mod in that I can flip the two CV outputs so that the Scale Pot can control either the Pitch or the Filter in an instant..! Fitting it permanently will require drilling a hole - probably between the two pots, making it non stock. Still work in progress though…
Tom,
Congrats on the acquisition. Is that the guitar center one? I remember seeing what looked like the non-functional one and the price they were asking for was really high!
I notice a few things that make yours different from mine, the first is that the sounds you get sound MUCH BETTER than what I was able to coax out of the Micromoog! The second is that you are getting much more of a “drum” sound out of the head. When I took mine apart, there was a circular foam piece directly beneath the head. Did yours have this or did you discard it?
One thing that you might want to watch out for is the paint. If I remember correctly, something about that Ludwig paint has a tendency to start flaking off.
Thanks for making a video of these, there are a small hand full of videos out there.
Here’s mine with an uncontrollable hump dance which caused my wife to bust out laughing. https://vimeo.com/3824001
I’d like to find a way to neutralize the paint flaking and it would be nice to find an old Ludwig tom stand.
I don’t know anything about electronics but I think it’s just an envelope follower circuit which is audio modulated by the speaker inside which is wired like a microphone.
So the harder you hit it you get a variable voltage possibly attenuated by the scale potentiometer. Each attack will produce a gate. It needs to be powered by an accessory jack on the mini, micro, or other, or if you do what CZ has done he created an interface on a modular panel to power it.
I liked to try to use it like one would use a ride cymbal, except making it where it would do somewhat of a walking bassline. That isn’t evident in the video I posted (which is one of my oldest youtube videos) but its a neat novelty effect. I think mine needs a little maintenance. If anything, one needs to pull that black foam out of there.
I was using a Moog Modular and Minimoog…! And you must remember that this controller only ‘controls’ by a specific, and quite limited amount..! Your results are hugely dependant on the sound you have set up on the synth(s) being controlled.
Yes, this was the eBay one - it had a load of bits missing, and I made a few offers over quite a long time and eventually ended up securing it, still paying ‘over-the-odds’ though… but as these don’t come up often and I can fix stuff I thought why not…!?
There is another one on eBay at the moment for $1K… but at that price you’d hope it would be fully working.
I still have the foam on mine, it was missing the speaker and some hardware… mainly pots, pillars and the base plate. I ended up making my own base plate, engraving some text on it and also fitting a jack socket there for the V-trigger output.
Luckily when I fired it up, the actual circuit board had no faults at all, which was really my main worry…!!
Cheerz,
Tom
BTW: If you want a good ‘drum sound’ try playing with those skin tensioning bolts..!
Thanks from all of us for keeping things like this alive. Even though I probably will never see or purchase one, it’s great to have that bit of ‘living history’ right here on this forum.
I think for years, CZ and Olivier Grall had the ONLY 1130 demos on youtube. When we get into the new house I’ll make another one in HD with better programming and less hump dancing (which I assert is the TRUE definition of “wiggling.” Not the knob turning but the self-congratulatory dancing while patching).
I’ll try and get some of mine uploaded. The ‘paint’ you have flaking is unusual because drum shells are not usually painted as such. They have a laminate covering, so maybe yours was stripped at some point and painted by a previous owner…?
There’s no telling man. I vaguely remember someone saying that Ludwigs had a tendency to flake like this, and the only other vintage ludwig set that I saw (which could have been painted also) didn’t have a clear coat on them either.
But how do you strip the paint and not affect the decals? If I thought I could have an exact match of the decals, I’d probably have the whole thing repainted.
I can confirm that some old Ludwig drums were painted, not covered by a plastic laminate like moderns ones. I had an old Ludwig snare drum that started to flake like that after many decades.
And the shell itself is 1/4" plywood, but the added bottom flange looks like MDF.
Glad you got that all sorted out Tom! Sounds like it works great. Those 1130’s are so much fun. I got my first one back in 1975. Perfect addition to a Minimoog. Every drummer/percussionist wanted to try it out.
The only thing more fun than the 1130 is a pair of 1130’s and Minimoogs.
I usually can advance sequencers with them or put the pitch CV through a scale quantizer to make them more melodic. I even had a setup where I could transpose keys with a set of Taurus pedals. Surprised more drummers/percussionist do not utilize that way of playing. Would be great to have a Berlin School jam where the percussionist was driving all the sequencers.
Little video demo of a pair of 1130’s. All Moog sounds. YouTube demo of two 1130’s driving Minimoogs
Eric, I would think an adapter would be easy to make, one that slots into the drum… and also attaches to any stand…!
CZ, great vid - you mentioned the quantiser… is that what you’re using in this latest vid to kinda stick to the same notes…? If so could you point me to one somewhere…? By the way - did you never think of trying the CV reversal switch? So you can swap scaled and unscaled around without repatching… it does open up new possibilities…!?
I never really wanted to alter it from its original intent, but that might be something to think about.
The sad part is that a buddy of mine had a vintage Ludwig set (9 pieces) that he let his friends destroy and he abandoned what was left of it in Florida. Those tom stands would have worked.
As of right now, it is in a box. When we move I’ll dig it out and evaluate it.
Quantizers are great for something like the 1130. The quantizer forces the CV to round off to different scales, depending on the model. A standard chromatic quantizer will round off the incomming voltages to 1/12th volt steps. Depending on the model quantizer one may be able to select different scales and even modes.
The quantizer I was using on the right 1130 was a Blacet/Wiard Miniwave. That one is a multi purpose device that can be a quantizer or a wavetable lookup oscillator. It has a switch to select different EPROMS. The one EPROM I have is a scale quantizer, with many different scales to choose from. I think the video it was set to octaves and fifths. Really fun to put between the 1130 CV and oscillators. Same with the 1125 Sample-Hold. The quantizer turns random CV’s into scales and correct pitches. One of the drawbacks to those random CV’s is they can play non-notes, like a slightly sharp C and notes between chromatic notes. The quantizer cleans up those CV’s to regular pitches.
They are quirky though. There is a window where the voltage can go either way, and if you are right on the edge of the window the CV may glitch. Depends on the brand but they are not perfect. Great to use with sequencers, but that is where the glitch may happen, dialing in voltages.
The Blacet was DIY and I put my own 5U panel on mine.
Link here: Blacet Mini Wave 2090: Voltage Controlled Wavetable Device
The other quantizer I use is a Modcan dual quantizer. Mine has a Moog style panel while the stock one is a white panel.
Link here: Modcan Dual Quantizer module
And I never tried one, but Dotcom also has a quantizer module. Q171 Quantizer Bank
For my Moog accessories I made a DIY panel with the Cinch 8 pin socket and the four outputs on 1/4" jacks. Gets power from the Mini +/-10V. There is a module next to it unlabled with what I call a modular performance switch. Has 5 ins and 5 outs selectable via a three position six pole CTS rotary like the ones used for Minimoog octave/waveform switching. Can be configured for many switching schemes via one rotary. Depending on the need it can switch around audio or CV’s. Set up as two seperate switch sets 1-2-3 and 4-5 the configurations are position 1 is 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4, 5-5. Position 2 is 1-2, 2-3, 3-1, 4-5, 5-4. And position 3 is 1-3, 2-1, 3-2, 4-4, 5-5. Many shows I would have an oscillator set switching to different filter combinations. Lots of possibilities with those performance switches.
Accessory panel and performance switch panel to right.
Close up of just the Moog Accessory modular panel.
And panel on right, performance switch for selecting incomming Pitch, Filter,Trigger source using another CTS 3 position 6 pole switch. Fast for live use.
The Miniwave is located on the bottom row, fourth module from the left.
I shall look into those… except the dotcom one, as I have learned he doesn’t share schematics. That’s a decider for me unfortunately… I’d rather DIY and build my own anyways…
. 15 V power is okay: