Hello Guys!!!
I recently bought a Kenton Pro Solo MkII and I would like to know how to drive from MIDI, my Minimoog Model D.
I bought this cable:
What other steps I have to do?
I’m a beginner!
TNX
√.
I should probably answer this one, considering I built that cable. 
That cable is for people that desire only external control. (no Mini keyboard.)
One unplugs the keyboard connector and puts this one in instead.
The cable with the green heatshrink on it is Gate (green for gate) and the other is CV.
These plug directly into the Kenton’s Gate and CV jacks respectively.
From there, one has to follow the directions in the Kenton manual for tuning and scaling.
The Moog considers F to be it’s tonic (0, 1, 2, 3 volts, etc should play an F note), but most other synths use C.
That means you will likely have to use the Kenton’s transpose feature. (it will remember this setting once done.)
The gate setting should also be set to high.
(One does not use the “Moog” or S-trig output or setting with this cable.)
Let me know how it works out for you.
Yesterday I used the same cable with an Oberheim Mini sequencer and it was a gas to play a Mini from one of those. 
Good luck!
I connected everything, but no sound comes out.
The Kenton receives MIDI signals, But from the Out of the Model D, nothing comes out. 
Would you be so kind to explain step by step things to do?
Thanks for your patience!
Make sure the MIDI channel, gate polarity and level are correct.
Also that the Mini is working properly.
You can check if the Mini is receiving a gate correctly by placing a 9v battery across the Gate (green) plug.
(+ to tip of plug)
The Mini should make a sound (if properly patched) when using a 9v battery to check the gate this way.
If this above works, then it’s likely the Kenton requiring parameters changed.
Do you have the manual for the Kenton?
You want the hottest, positive-going gate it provides and there’s several settings that control this.
I’m not sure I can explain things in any simpler terms, but I’ll guaranty the cable.
I tried to insert the green wire (gate), over a 9-volt battery, just like you told me, but there’s not signals.
The Minimoog works more than perfectly.
Also, when I insert your cable into 6-pin KEYBOARD CONTROLLER, Minimoog sounds as normal… the keyboard work anyway… I do not think it’s normal!
Also, when I insert your cable into 6-pin KEYBOARD CONTROLLER, Minimoog sounds as normal… the keyboard work anyway… I do not think it’s normal!
You’re right. It’s not normal, but it is because you don’t plug the cable into the accessory plugs on top of the Mini.
You unhook the keyboard’s plug and plug the new cable IN PLACE OF the keyboard’s plug.
You have to take the bottom cover off the Minimoog and unplug the keyboard.
The cable does not plug into the accessory sockets on top.
In fact, this might damage either the Kenton or Mini.
One moment … sorry, I opened the back panel of the Mini, but I do not know what you mean when you tell me to unplug the keyboard.
O_o
Look the picture of my Mini here: http://flic.kr/p/8TG2Ub
bottom cover. Bottom.
Wood… 8 screws…
OOOOH SORRYYYYY!!! 
My english is so bad!
Ehm… there’s a lot of cables and plugs… where is the keyboard plug in this jungle?
…screwdriver… flat blade or phillips… rotate counterclockwise to remove, clockwise to assemble 
No worries.. I knew you’d find it.
20 BPM now…
There are some trees in that jungle.
One is to the keyboard. It has 6 wires.
If there is a wire tie (strap) around it, cut it.
Separate the male and female connectors.
Plug the new cable in place of the male keyboard cable.
Lead the cable out the hole in the wood with the other wires there.
Plug them into your Kenton after hopefully putting everything back together again.
BUT… the socket is different from your cable… 
Look here!
Oh no! 
Your Minimoog is modified.
Someone replaced the original connectors with computer connectors (DB style.)
Very sorry. Your connectors are not stock originals from Moog.
The cable will only work with unmodified Moogs.
My Mini is upgradated by Lintronics…
shit!
I just read through this whole post… and now im sad… damn mods!
My Mini is upgradated by Lintronics…
I imagine Rudi at Lintronics was trying to improve over what Moog used, but in this case.. yeah… “damn mods!”
Those other connectors are good and do have gold plated pins, but this is something I couldn’t foresee.
If Rudi uses a documented pinout, I could make another cable with a 9 pin connector like his.
But I admit this is a sad situation for now.
Would be very useful for me.
Sorry guys,
it was’nt and it is’nt possible for me to get the original golden connectors and this is the reason for the golden Sub-D connectors. Here you can see the pin order: www.lintronics.de/manuals/Sub_D_Minimoog_Keyboard.pdf
Have fun,
Rudi
Just to clarify things, Moog only used gold plated Cinch connectors in their last revs of Minis.
Around serial number 10,000 and up or so.
All the earlier Minis used standard tinned connectors and they’re still available from at least 3 manufacturers.
Additionally, these last revs of Minis also had gold plated pins for the mod section connector and on certain pins in their edge card sockets used to hold the circuit boards.
I know YOU knew this, Rudi.
Just making sure it doesn’t enter the rumor mill that all Minis used gold plated pins all over… cuz they didn’t.
Did you document the pinout for Vittorio’s Mini here?
If so, I’ll be able to make him a new cable.
My Minimoog’s serial number is: 4268 (given to Lintronics by Gianni Grisanzio).