I just learned about A/D converters! Cool!
but now I’m wondering If my studio doesn’t need a revamping?
Is an audio interface the same as a A/D converter?
Here’s my setup;
LP and Machine drum (plus others) recording everything with Ableton Live 6 on a Mac through a presonus audio interface.
Since I record everything onto a computer am I losing the analogness?
Are there ways around this?
Yes, you are losing analogness. Buy a two-inch tape machine, you’re stylin’.
A/D converters transmogrify analog sound waves into digital reproductions. The idea is to create the digital repro with such fine resolution that it’s indistinguishable from the “real” thing.
You’ve probably seen low resolution computer drawings of a curved line – you can see the “steps” in the line as the computer emulates the curve.
Same thing with digitized sound. You want the sampled sound waves so hi-resolution that the “steps” are no longer apparent. This is what “sample rate” refers to – higher sample rate, better resolution.
The A/D converter is part of your sound card – that’s basically what it does.
Yes, an audio interface includes an A/D converter. However, the included A/D in the interface is likely going to be of lesser quality than a dedicated one.
Well, that totally depends. An inexpensive do-everything interface will definitely have lower quality A/D conversion than an expensive studio A/D converter, but there are plenty of high end audio interfaces that go to great lengths to have good A/D conversion since it’s a major selling point.
I use an RME Multiface, for example, and while there are plenty of dedicated A/D boxes in the “twice as expensive” range that will outperform it, the A/D conversion in the RME boxes is not remotely shabby.
Short answer is it’s worth looking around, comparing reviews and user opinions, as A/D conversion is an important part of what any audio interface does and some are certainly better than others (even comparing items in the same price range).
I suspect that Presonus box is not ruining your audio by any means. One thing you can do to retain maximum “analogness” is to record at the highest bit rate/depth that you’re comfortable with. 32 bit / 88.2 kHz is nice, because it represents a lot of audio info and it will convert to CD quality with no aliasing if you need to downsample at any point.
Presonus audio interfaces have pretty good A/D D/A converters but don’t expect to have high end conversion,good converters are very expensives.
The thing is now you good buy a pro tools TDM for almost nothing but you can’t use version higher than 6.something… BUT for almost the same price than a pro tools LE with cheaper sound card you can have “professional” converters.That really makes a difference.
And now for the theory…
The higher sample rate the better definition (for the music at least 44100 Hz)
The higher bit resolution the more dynamic (1 bit=6dB).
work with the highest resolution possible…VERY IMPORTANT
Nope. Go to GearSlutz and the first thing anyone will tell you is Digidesign (sorry, Avid ) converters are terrible. Just because it says “Pro Toolz” doesn’t mean it’s good.
CD’s are 16 bit 44.1kHz.
Most recordings are 24 bit and anywhere from 44.1k to 96k.
The Presonus units are fine, but if you want to upgrade, go with Apogee, RME, Lynx, Prism Sound, …
I don’t need to go to Gearslutz to make my own opinion.I just need to USE the gears…And I’m in studios everyday,working and talking with studios engineers.So you’re right there’s better converters than the ones that come with a TDM but they are above the average really really above .And switching from a presonus to a tdm…How can I say…you really hear the difference.
I’m planing to upgrade my recording, can you pleas help me with decision what to bay? I’m thinking Revox two track or something, but it seems like they don’t produce tape recorders anymore. or do they?
i know it is little bit off topic, but i thought close enough, sorry
Otari machines are high quality and avalable at reasonable prices. Anything from 1/4" half tracks to 2" 24 tracks are out there for a song.
Tape is available new from RMGI. At this date I would steer clear of Quantegy as it hasn’t been made in years and if it hasn’t been stored correctly can cause problems with the coatings coming off. I use the Otari and really like the results. They are easy to maintain and calibrate. (Don’t forget you need an expensive master tape for that. Paid more for that than I paid for the deck!) I’ve also got a cassette mastering deck that makes really nice cassette tapes for passing out to friends or for listening elsewhere.
And as was stated above. Recording to HIFI VHS stereo is a really good but difficult to edit format. (The effective tape speed is over 70 IPS with no wow or flutter and a dynamic range and freq responce well beyond CD quality.)
FYI, I went tape because I like the sound, feel and smell of it. It was also so much less expensive than setting up a computer based system.