dreams do come true.
i just picked up this vintage synth for 75 dollars off of craigslist!!!
it is fully functional, if anything it just needs some contact cleaning on the fader pots.
does anybody have a rough value
does anybody got any crazy tips hints or known issues?
Btw, contact cleaner isn’t recommended.
It’ll probably appear to help if used at first, but problems will occur again and again.
Contact cleaner doesn’t remove dirt, it moves it off to the side.
There are lots of things to check for, differences between models, things that can fail, mods, etc.
But unless something really annoys you, it’s probably best to enjoy it as it is.
yeah i went to go buy the first for 25 but they said they already sold it.
i guess i am lucky that the first guy didn’t see both of them.
so thanks for the replies guys.
i haven’t used any cleaners or anything.
it is a late mk1 ( i know it is in the last 2 years of the mk1 due to the paint theme is that of the mkII)
it has the rotary pitch bend knob.
so if you have restored some of these maybe just maybe you could lend this electronics major-student some tips on giving this great piece of machinery a makeover. i will post pics tomorrow. nciontea@new.rr.com
thanks again everyone.
I can offer tips, but I can’t provide experience or everything you’d need to restore it.
Unfortunately, the only way I deal with Odys nowadays is to totally immersion clean them, detarnish contacts, relube, resolder, etc.
It’s a long process to explain.
Also the type of lube I use has been banned by ROHS and I couldn’t even tell you where to get it any longer.
But I’d offer that if you’re an EE student and just picked up a $75 Ody, you’re in a great position to learn a lot about electronics for cheap.
Awesome! I got mine for $425 because they wanted it out of their guitar sop . …and I thought that I got a good deal. That beast of legend is worth at least $1,000 IMO, good score.
I just read on the AH list that you liked MG chemicals Silicone Grease for a lube for sliders since it’s a little thicker has a little “drag” to it.
Actually, no. You may have misread a post.
I use GC Chemical’s Luberex, but not what they sell now.
They changed the formula to something totally different, but kept the same packaging and stock number.
It really messes people up, but gets GC one last sale if the buyer thought it was the old stuff. (like me!)
If I’m correct, the original post was this:
Lately I’ve been using Dow Corning release compound #7 on many things, but it’s basically a silicone grease.
Same stuff is sold through MG Chemicals (8462).
I like the old luberex because it creates the viscous damping feeling that makes them feel like new.
It has lots of “drag” to it.
I use very warm to hot soft water and simple green today still.
Often an additional stage where switch contacts get some Tarn-x and heavy rinse.
An air compressor follows and then an air dry.
But there are some “gotchas” in this kind of process.
You may damage the foil cap on the A board and need to replace it.
Tarn-x can discolor the switch housings if not applied correctly.
Also after switches are detarnished, the contacts can have considerable friction and may need a light lube.
I am also in the desert and things dry incredibly fast here… your results may vary.
Some small, but important to know details.
Interestingly, simple green (green) mixed with Tarn-X (clear) turns red.
I found my first one in a pawnshop near South 4th street in Philly, but that was in 1990. Still, got it for 85 bucks. No one could figure out how to get a sound out of it.
At some point you will probably find some noise in one or more of the sliders. At another point, the sliders may lose some of their range, so that they only work in the top half of the throw of the slider. Make sure to get a nice dust cover for it…